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David Parfitt
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[*] posted on 5-18-2004 at 07:56 AM
Trip to Iran


Hi

Just returned from Iran and thought people may be interested in some of the oud recordings I found there. The place itself was great, and real highlights were the city of Yazd - where I visited a 'zurkhaneh' (house of strength) with some incredible drumming - and the shrine in Qom. Unfortunately I did not get any time in Tehran to check out Mr Arafati and his ouds, so that will have to wait until next time (that's what I said last time!!).

The CDs I found include the new album by Hossein Behroozinia, which features Pejman Hadadi on tombak and Hamid Motebassem on setar as the Dastan Trio (the cover of my version is in Farsi, but the same recording is also available on ARC Music at http://www.arcmusic.co.uk). I also bought a CD called "Leyla Khatoun" by an oud player called Tahmoures Pournazeri, who I have not heard of before.

On cassette I found Hossein Behroozinia's "Yadestan" (unavailable on CD) and four volumes of Abdolvahab Shahidi - only the last of these is solo oud, and seems to be the same as the "Master Shahidi" recording available in the West.

I also got another 15 or so CDs of tar and setar by Hossein Alizadeh, Dariush Talai, Jalal Zolfonoon, Farhang Sharif etc. - if anyone is interested then I can give them more details. There certainly seemed to be a far wider selection of 'classical' music available than when I was last there 18 months ago.

I would really urge people to visit Iran now, before it becomes just like the rest of the world. There are so many unique things there and people in general are very welcoming (but get out of Tehran as soon as you can!).

Best wishes

David
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Elie Riachi
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[*] posted on 5-18-2004 at 09:07 AM


Quote:
Originally posted by David Parfitt


(but get out of Tehran as soon as you can!).

Best wishes

David


I wonder Why?
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Zulkarnain
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[*] posted on 5-18-2004 at 09:19 AM


Hi David

Let me guess....the way they drive the vehicles?:mad:




Regards
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David Parfitt
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[*] posted on 5-18-2004 at 09:58 AM


Hi Guys

Not just the driving in Tehran, but the attitudes - greed, rudeness, aggression, cynicism, ignorance. It reminded me of travelling to Moscow about ten years ago, when people were eagerly lapping up everything the West had to offer and pushing the boundaries as far as they could.

Sorry if this sounds patronising or opinionated, but it makes me sick to see such genuinely nice people corrupted by 'our' shallow consumerism in this way. You really can see it happening before your eyes and the difference between the last generation and the present one is so evident. I have been to Russia, Georgia, Armenia, Azerbaijan and India in the last year, and all of these places looked depressingly similar - I get the feeling that Iran will be just the same in a few years' time.

This may all seem irrelevant on an oud forum, but all of these cultural changes are bound to have an impact on the future of the oud and the type of music that we enjoy listening to.

Best wishes

David
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Dr. Oud
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[*] posted on 5-18-2004 at 11:13 AM


I suppose large cities can be more easily corrupted. I found Tehran to be stimulating in that many cultural opportunities are there. Besides Arafati, there's santur master Majid Kiani, santur maker Diaroush Saleri, The Kamkar's Music school with Arselan teaching oud and lots of shops to explore. I wouldn't want to stay in Tehran too long, but it should not be missed on a visit to Iran. I had many experiences of friendly and engaging people, generous shop keepers and helpful strangers. It was my first visit and I was very excited, so I probably ignored the disappointing parts.

Don't miss Shiraz, it was once the capitol city of Iran. It has Persepolis and the tombs of both Hafez and Sadi as well as the gardens of the Summer Palace. I found a bazaar in Shiraz that was all music instruments. egad!

For sheer beauty and the most fragrent air on earth you must go to Esfahan in the spring or summer. There are so many flower gardens that the whole city smells like a bouquet. The evening stroll by the river and tea in the little tea house in the middle of the bridge are extraordinary. The hotel Shah Abbas was once a Palace and is unbelievably ornate with another huge garden in the center. I miss it all now.

Did I mention the food? There is no processed food in Iran. It's all fresh and abundant and cheap. Bread is a penny. A fancy restaurant dinner is about $7 US. now I'm hungry too!




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David Parfitt
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[*] posted on 5-18-2004 at 01:48 PM


Hi Richard

I would certainly agree about Esfahan and Shiraz being two of the highlights, and add Yazd to the list too.

I must admit that the first time we were in Tehran we did not have any problems. This time, however, we had a number of bad experiences in the city that kind of soured things. Restaurants were also starting to charge more like $20 for a meal, and it was around $5 to travel a km by taxi. Once you were out of the big city though, things were about a fifth of the price and people were different altogether.

Best wishes

David
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Elie Riachi
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[*] posted on 5-18-2004 at 03:21 PM


Quote:
Originally posted by Dr. Oud
There is no processed food in Iran. It's all fresh and abundant and cheap. Bread is a penny. A fancy restaurant dinner is about $7 US. now I'm hungry too!


I love that Iranian flat bubly bread fresh from the bakery. Now I am hungry too and I cannot eat since I am at work.
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Mike
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[*] posted on 5-18-2004 at 03:53 PM


Welcome back David. We missed you mate!



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Meursault
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[*] posted on 5-19-2004 at 07:07 PM
Welcome back. I know what you mean about going


to Iran before it all changes. The same thing applies to Cuba. How can a society be open and still preserve what's unique about it? Resist the hegemon!
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