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Jameel
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[*] posted on 7-25-2004 at 06:28 PM
My next oud project


The first time around I was industrious enough to document almost every step of my oud project. It was a lot of fun but also a lot of work (I took over 500 photos during construction) ( I also had lots of help publishing the website---which I don't have this time around) For those of you who are interested, and through Mike's encouragement and generosity, I will be posting some photos and explanation of my next oud project in this thread. I'll primarily be documenting elements of this project which are different from my first one---some things I'll be trying for the first time. No sense in repeating things that are already available. I'll also post general updates on the construction progress. This will be another Nahat-style oud based mostly on Richard's book, (droud.com) using some measurements I've obtained of Nahats since the last project. My main purpose in this is to share some of the techniques I've learned from being a professional woodcarver/cabinetmaker, and voicing my thoughts during the process in order to learn from mistakes---the best way to improve! I welcome comments and questions and suggestions from other oud makers from the community. Wish me luck....:wavey:



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[*] posted on 7-25-2004 at 06:40 PM
Making blanks for decorative inlays


The diamand shape inlay is the reason for the these blanks, but many different designs can be made up from them. I'll use these on the soundboard and pehaps on the back. I started with peices of thin walnut and maple which I resawed from thicker boards and planed to around 2mm, sandwiched with walnut and maple veneers. The blanks are then glued up using a paint roller for a even thin coat, and thick clamping cauls to distibute the clamping pressure. The next step will be to cut these into strips and assemble them into various patterns.



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Elie Riachi
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[*] posted on 7-25-2004 at 08:14 PM


Hey Jameel,

Great idea, looking forward. Mowafaq (best of luck.)

Elie
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[*] posted on 7-25-2004 at 09:46 PM


Hi Jameel,

You already know that I was addicted to your website when you were in the process of making your first oud. It was great to follow the whole process along with you. I am totally looking forward to doing the same with Oud Number Two. I'm sure it's going to turn out fantastic. I've also topped this thread so it will be easy for us all to find as you continue to update us with your progress.

Best of luck,
Mike




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[*] posted on 7-26-2004 at 03:03 PM
Diamond inlay joining and assembly


Thanks Mike and Elie. Your encouragement means a great deal. But keep in mind it's summertime, I still have to keep some time for bbq and fishing, you know?

I cut the blanks into strips for easier management, and made a little mitering fixture for cutting the peices out. This was more difficult than I had anticipated. These are small peices that make up the diamond. I thought I could make up some thick diamonds and then slice 1-2mm thick individual diamonds from those to save some labor/time. I'm not sure if the Nahats did it this way, or just assembled the diamonds from thinner strips. I also made a shooting board to guide the plane which smoothed out the saw cuts and established the exact angle--or so I thought. Getting the angles right was very difficult. Even if it is off by one degree, there will be gaps. I tried my best to adjust the angle after the peices were cut out, but there are only a few chances as the piece gets smaller and smaller. The peices are so small that it is difficult to hold them while working them. The results are ok, and you can see that some of the veneer lines don't match up that well. I think I'll try to come up with a more accurate way of planing/cutting the peices. I think the thick diamond method will be better once I master it since I could essentially make about 6 inlays at once.




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[*] posted on 7-27-2004 at 09:18 AM


Hi Jameel,

Bbq sounds good yum.

I do not if this will be useful for you but here is my suggestion regarding making the angles on the diamonds since it sounds difficult to do with a planer moving is to mount the planer to squared block on its side then clamping the little piece into the shooting board and use that as a guide against the block as you make passes with the work against the planer.

Clamping the little piece can be done by having a bolt attached to the side of the shooting board and using a large enough washer, a wing nut and a little piece of wood which will apply the clamping action to the little work as the wing nut is tightened. I appologize for the low tech illustration, but it is a quick sketch to hopefully clarify what I am rambling.

Regards,
Elie
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[*] posted on 8-1-2004 at 07:17 PM
Diamond inlay shooting fixture


Elie,

Thanks for the good tips. I thought a few days about your good idea and came up with the following this afternoon. I don't like the idea of metal parts so close to my sharp plane iron, so I swapped out your wing nut for some wood. I tapped the holes for machine screws which clamp the piece in the fixture. The fixture has two ends, one with 22.5 degrees and the other at 45 degrees. I still wasn't able to go right from the fixture to assembly, the angles still aren't dead on. But a little slight planing here and there and I ended up with more satisfactory results, and making the five pieces was easier and quicker. Hopefully for the next session in the shop I'll be making a mold for the back.




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[*] posted on 8-1-2004 at 09:21 PM


You are very welcome Jameel. I like your design a lot, it is clean, neat and holds work piece securely.
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[*] posted on 8-20-2004 at 08:55 AM


Hi Mr. Jameel :

I have sent several messages to you and your mail given back them, you can send your correct email to me ???
I send you my message in arabic..




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[*] posted on 8-20-2004 at 01:56 PM


Hi Faladel,

Try this:

jambraham(at)mchsi.com

replace the (at) with @.

Please write me in English. My Arabic is limited to some church hymns and naturally, my favorite foods! Yabra', koosa baytinjin!




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[*] posted on 8-21-2004 at 02:07 AM
my oud


Dear Jameel :

Imposible ...Your E-mail...

Thank you very much by you magnify information that you put in the Mikes Web , that teaches much to us. I write to you requesting your expert aid to solve the problem of my OUD. since I have written before in the Web of mike I have a Oud its box has made by Michel Khawwam, the best one luthier in the history of Aleppo, done in 1967 I have bought it to another manufacturer and I have given to Jameel yorgaki Kandalaft the second more important Luthier of aleppo for made me the face.Like Farid Oud.
in 1969,en November I have traveled to Spain to study medicine and have left my oud in house of my parents, 30 years later, have returned to gather ,it was kept in a furniture during these 30 years. I have found that the humidity has damaged to him in the union of the wood near the handle and near the base like I command to you in fotografias, so the drawing near the Shamsieh has been taken off.
in my trip to Syria 3/8/2004, I have taken it to the factory of Ibrahim Sukkar who has repaired it, but I do not like since he has done it, and my questions are:
1- is some better way to solve the problem of the union of the wood of the box???.
2- to paint the box and the face with barnish with pistol like fadel Ouds, conserves better my oud and it does not spoil his sound?
Thank you for your attention and your aid, and very sorry for your Arabic...Like my English... aaaaand I like all foods :-)))))
:D:D




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[*] posted on 8-22-2004 at 11:38 AM


Dr. Faruk,

I was able to see the photos of your nice oud. I'm sorry my e-mail isn;t working for you. Try clicking on the link at my website below.

I'm no expert on ouds, just a hobby oudmaker. I'm learning more and more all the time.

Your questions are a bit hard to understand, but I think you are asking how to repair a loose neck, and whether or not to varnish the face. Most oud faces are unvarnished, but some put a little bit. It all depends on how much. The more varnish you put, the less the face will vibrate. As for the loose neck, Dr. Oud has a great book on oud reapir you might want to buy. You can get it here: Dr. Oud. Good luck. You should also post a separate message about your oud so more people see it.

Jameel




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[*] posted on 8-23-2004 at 03:53 AM
my oud


Hi Jameel :

Thank you very much for your help and for your message.
:applause:




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[*] posted on 8-29-2004 at 01:50 PM
Making the mould


I decided to make this oud using a mould. The last one was made without, and I ended up with an oud that was about 4cm narrower than I planned. Hopefully this method will eliminate that. I heard that there is a tendency to introduce stress into the ribs when forcing the ribs to conform to the shape of the mould, so I will do my best to make the ribs fit very close without forcing them. The mould is made from 12mm high-quality plywood. I'm not a big fan of particle board, it's not very strong, so I chose this material. I took the measurements from a paper pattern of the oud face, and using a compass at the various points on the pattern I drew the shape of the "bulkheads" and cut them out. This mould will have 5 bulkheads. The mould is 2mm smaller all around to allow for the final rib thickness which will be somewhere between 2 and 3 mm.



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[*] posted on 9-26-2004 at 06:01 AM


Quote:
Originally posted by Jameel
I decided to make this oud using a mould. The last one was made without, and I ended up with an oud that was about 4cm narrower than I planned. Hopefully this method will eliminate that. I heard that there is a tendency to introduce stress into the ribs when forcing the ribs to conform to the shape of the mould, so I will do my best to make the ribs fit very close without forcing them. ....

Jameel is a fine craftsman and made a fantastic oud his first time. In fairness I must reply to explain that the 4cm width variation was not due to the free-form or mold-less construction process. During the buld up of the back, the edges of the ribs must fit together their entire length without forcing them together. Otherwise the shape is distorted usually resulting in a narrower width or a sharper "corner" in the lower bout. Building without a mold, each rib should be compared with a profile pattern after it is glued in and corrected or replaced if it is out of shape. Using a mold will make this distorsion more evident, in fact the mold will prevent you from fitting the rib if the edge shape is too far off. Forcing the ribs together is not good with either method. To help avoid this misfit, you can bend the ribs in the blank retangular outline without trimming the edges. The next mating edge can then be traced onto the blank from the assembled rib. The next rib edge is then planed down to the scribe line. The open edge would then be shaped flat as usual. If you build with a mold, be sure you have space to make the traced line from the inside. Too many bulheads could make this difficult, a solid mold makes tracing impossible.




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[*] posted on 12-18-2004 at 11:24 AM
Finished Mould


The finished mould.

Next step: making the tail block and neck block. Stay tuned...




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[*] posted on 12-25-2004 at 04:28 PM
Bending the ribs


I bent the ribs before cutting them, to help prevent twisting. I got this idea from Samir Azar. Works well. I also didn't soak the ribs, but simply spritzed them with water from a spray bottle on both sides before bending. In reality, the ribs can be bent with heat only. The water evaporates pretty fast anyway, and once the wood is hot it bends pretty easily. This oud is going to have 15 ribs of walnut. This walnut was cut from a 4" thick billet, (I got 19 ribs at 2.3mm each) so every rib has matching grain.



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[*] posted on 12-29-2004 at 06:32 PM
Making some inlay for the back of the oud


I stumbled on the method for making thus type of inlay. I started with a sketch, and picked 30 degrees as an angle to work with. Of course three 30's make 90, so this is only angle needed to make these little triangles. I didn't use the clamp to plane the blocks, but simply cut them at 30 degrees with a fine saw, which left a very smooth surface for gluing. I used a homemade miter box. It's just a peice of wood with a dado to fit the inlay blank and kerf cut in at 30 degrees. See above for ideas. There are so many different arrangements one can create with these little blocks, this is one that is found on Nahat ouds I've seen.



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[*] posted on 12-29-2004 at 06:39 PM
One more thing...


This isn't one peice of inlay. After I glue it, I'll cut this piece up and get about 5 slices.



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thumbup.gif posted on 12-29-2004 at 11:00 PM
Fantastic...


It's wonderful to watch this project progress Jameel, thanks for posting the pics. Excuse my ignorance, but where is the inlay going on the oud and what's the scale of it, I can't tell from the photo.

Thanks
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[*] posted on 12-30-2004 at 06:00 AM


Thank you. It goes on the back of the oud, on the bowl. I'll put several stripes in the ribs. It's about 15cm long.



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[*] posted on 12-30-2004 at 09:01 AM


Hey Jameelo,

I'm with Tezza. This is going to be a lot of fun watching your oud project come to life my man. Those strips are going to look awesome on the bowl. It looks like your getting into a groove bud. Keep it up and keep us posted! :applause:

Take care,
Mike




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[*] posted on 1-26-2005 at 02:47 PM
amazing


That is simply an amazing piece of artwork. HOw does it sound?
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[*] posted on 1-26-2005 at 04:22 PM


It is a nice oud, isn't it! Of course I wish I had made it. That's Simon Shaheen's Nahat. I've heard it in person. It sounds great. If everyone promises to behave, I'll post an MP3 of Simon soon.



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[*] posted on 1-26-2005 at 05:28 PM
PROMISED!!


:airguitar:
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