Maraguzzi
Oud Admirer
Posts: 4
Registered: 9-10-2010
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How to stop pegs "jumping" while tuning
Sometimes I find it really hard to tune my ouds cos the pegs will "jump" back to the original position when its untuned and i have to keep putting it
back and pressing on the peg. How do you stop it? i heard someone on this forum talking about a oil or somthing you put on the pegs so it doesn't do
this, what isit?
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DaveH
Oud Junkie
Posts: 526
Registered: 12-23-2005
Location: Birmingham, UK
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Hi
This is often caused not by a problem with the pegs but by the way the strings are wound. Where possible, they need to be wound towards the peg head,
so that when under tension, the string pulls the peg back into the pegbox. From what you say it sounds like this may be your problem. It's hard to
wind the strings this way for all the pegs, but it's particularly important for those at the neck end of the pegbox, which will tend to produce the
most acute peg-string angles.
Sometimes the string holes in the pegs are drilled in a position which makes it difficult to arrange the windings properly - in this case you might
have to drill new holes, but consult a luthier or someone with experience first - it's a complicated puzzle and not necessarily just a case of
locating all the holes opposite the peg head.
Also try to make sure you apply "inward" pressure as you wind the string. For the upper pegs as you hold the oud, you can do this by pushing the peg
down and supporting the pegbox with your knee. On the lower pegs, use a slightly more difficult trick of hooking a finger over the pegbox wall as you
wind, and pulling the peg inwards this way.
If the string winding is OK, it could be that the contact between the pegs and their holes are too slippery. You can apply chalk to the peg where it
contacts the pegbox wall, but a lot of people worry that chalk gradually abrades this contact point. I use peg compound/peg paste, which is usually
sold for violins. I find this works well for both sticking and slipping pegs, but it can tend more toward slipping in very hot climates, as it's wax
based.
If none of these help, it might be a more significant problem that you need new pegs and also possibly re-boring the peg-box holes, but the latter is
more complicated and also less likely.
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DoggerelPundit
Oud Junkie
Posts: 141
Registered: 7-28-2010
Location: Pacific Northwest
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My 2 cents on minding two variables:
Bearing surfaces: next time you restring, remove and examine each peg, and its holes in the head stock. Both bearing surfaces should
be of equal fit. To check that, see if there is a shine at two places on each peg, and in both holes. If not, then probably only one side is holding
and will be more subject to slipping. If the peg appears to fit properly, break the shines with light fine steel wool and remount the peg. Without a
string on the peg, push in while turning to gauge its resistance, and to see if the peg can be pushed to the point of not turning at all. If
resistance seems inadequate, do as D.H. suggests with a light application of chalk and/or violin peg dope. A light application. Another
possibility; with “used” ouds, previous owners have sometimes allowed pegs fitted by the maker to become swapped into different holes. It is some
trouble to check this, but it may be worth it.
Humidity: As with the rest of the oud, headstock wood will expand and contract to some extent along with the amount of water in the
air. Pegs generally will too, unless they are ebony. Pegs that hold in 40% humidity will often slip and detune, or become unreliable, in 5-10%. Going
the other way, pegs that hold ok in, say, 20% humidity may become quite tight at 50%. In extreme ranges, or with periodic very high humidity, pegs can
become frozen and untunable. Depending on the oud, it is possible to actually split the headstock if the pressure is not relieved by backing the pegs
out a little. If nothing else, this dynamic is sure to affect otherwise ill-fitting or slipping pegs—your use of "Sometimes" is suggestive. A good
hygrometer will keep you posted on the ranges where your oud lives.
As with any other aspect of ouds there are different opinions, including whether ouds should be detuned at all, unless for restringing or long term
storage. Repeated turning friction does cause wear.
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fernandraynaud
Oud Junkie
Posts: 1865
Registered: 7-25-2009
Location: San Francisco, California
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It's surprising how many ouds have pegbox holes roughly reamed, so the peg only contacts on one wall. A touch of old hard soap plus a touch of chalk
can help. But it's better that pegs stick than be too slippery.
If you really really hate your pegs, you can get new ones. Many oud pegs are tapered 1:15, others like violin/viola pegs at 1:25 to 1:30. The hole
must be tapered at the same angle as the peg. Beautiful rosewood viola pegs are available from Dov Schmidt at about $1 a peg. Ebony is often abrasive
due to salts in the wood, and so much harder than the pegbox wall that it wears it down, so rosewood is generally a better choice. They are not quite
as long as the ideal longest oud pegs that are closest to the nut. A reamer and peg shaver are necessary if you start over with new pegs, and that's a
$100 investment. It's easy to ream and shave too much, careful, or you might need to insert a plug and start over.
Most factory pegs can be made to work. It helps to know that even with new pegs it's hard to make all pegs problem-free. Many beginners don't know you
must press in while tuning. That's the place to start. Too much soap or peg dope is a disaster. Plain wood on plain wood is often best. A standard
1:25 reamer can help with existing pegs, especially if you turn it backwards to burnish the hole. .
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