eldad
Oud Addict
Posts: 47
Registered: 5-18-2012
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help!!!!!!!!!!!
Hello everyone
Does anyone has an idea what can I do with oud face? i bent the ribs perfectly and it still asymmetric 
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SamirCanada
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Hi Eldad,
If you bent and fited the ribs perefctly, you wouldnt have a problem with asymetric face. The way I see it now, you have finished building the bowls
and if they are a bit asymetric its not that big a deal. Just learn for next time.
The next step is to remove the bowl from the mold and place the bowl on the face, just trace the outline with a pencil and you have the right shape.
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samiroudmaker@gmail.com
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eldad
Oud Addict
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Thank you for your help samir . Is there anything I can do now?
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SamirCanada
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If you mean assymetric as in the ribs are not even with eachother?, you can keep scraping and sanding the back if thats what you mean.
if you mean that it is assymetrical (lop sided) when you look at it from the bottom where the face goes, please look at this thread from Jameel of
years ago. http://www.mikeouds.com/messageboard/viewthread.php?tid=1048&pa...
Once the ribs are assembled, you have to work with what you have. make the face on it and keep pluging along.
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samiroudmaker@gmail.com
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jdowning
Oud Junkie
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As Samir points out if the completed bowl is assymetric you will have to live with it but - a millimeter or so is to be expected until experience is
gained.
The assymetry is most likely due to 'ballooning' - where the ribs have not been fitted to the mold properly. This tends to be a cumulative error if
not corrected as assembly of the bowl proceeds. When working with a mold - 'bulkhead' style or solid - not only must the ribs be joined perfectly edge
to edge but they must also be in contact with the mold surfaces - without any forcing of the ribs onto the mold. That is there should be no space left
between the ribs and the surfaces of the bulkheads as assembly proceeds.
From your posted images there appears to be significant spaces left under the first (central) rib. It is best to make a bulk head mold with more
bulkheads (six) - especially where the longitudinal curvature of the mold is greatest.
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aasuits
Oud Addict
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Registered: 2-6-2013
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Don't freak out!
cut a caul ( make a tracing of the side/area you want to match) out of 2 x 4 or whatever wood will allow you to clamp it over the area you want to
reshape.
Just transfer the outline to the caul, bandsaw it carefully, and you have an inside and outside form. dampen the rib with warm water, clamp, and
repeat if you need to.
many old ouds are quite asymmetric in outline.
I use a very simple mold with only an outline of the inside face, a bulkhead of the back middle rib, and a transverse arch at the widest part of the
body. if you shape your ribs carefully it is all you need. I find this is best as you can really see what's going on with joints and shapes from the
inside. and there is also a style of building "in air" with no form/mold at all. if your rib shapes are accurate that can be fine too.
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eldad
Oud Addict
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Thanks I'll try it
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doroq
Oud Admirer
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I'm on my 7th build. Not technically ouds, in scale or construction techniques, and I use the "open form"-- no mold, just end and neck blocks secured
to a straight and square jig. I try to keep tight tolerances in regard to bends, but they've never come out totally symmetrical. BUT-- they all play
and sound great to my ears, from the baby "baglamoud" to the "celloud" Each one has it's own character, and my style of building is rather
improvisational, so I "roll with the punches" , so to say........
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Dr. Oud
Oud Junkie
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Location: Sacramento, CA, USA
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in my experience a bowel made by fitting to a mold is more likely to crack open because of the residual stress of bending the ribs in two directions
(together and onto the mold.) The open method or using a mold as a general guide and not forcing the ribs to the mold shape will result in a stronger
bowel.
Every old oud I have seen is asymmetric anyway, as are many hand made instruments - so what?. It is a cosmetic illusion that is totally unnecessary
for the musical qualities of the instrument, and in some ways is detrimental as the woods are under stress before the string pressure is applied.
Of course this is only my opinion based on over 40 years of building and repairing ouds.
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