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Author: Subject: Alder, jatoba and iroko for pegs?
antekboodzik
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[*] posted on 8-20-2013 at 06:11 AM
Alder, jatoba and iroko for pegs?


Can lute pegs be made from:

- Alder (Black Adler, Alnus glutinosa),
- Jatoba (Hymenaea courbaril),
- Iroko, not sure about exact latin name,
- Red Meranti?

All of these are easy available for me. Adler is spoken to be one of best for woodturning (?).
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antekboodzik
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[*] posted on 8-20-2013 at 12:25 PM


I made a misspell in english name of Alder, now corrected.
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Jody Stecher
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[*] posted on 8-20-2013 at 01:13 PM


Once, many years ago, I replaced the cheap fruit wood pegs on an oud with ebony pegs that together weighed more than the oud. So when I sat down to play, the bowl lifted off my leg and the peg head tilted toward the floor. I was so happy to get rid of the horrible old pegs, which were painted black, that before installing the new pegs I threw the old pegs in my wood burning stove, my only source of heat in that house. The pegs and their paint made the house warmer for one minute. Maybe. Then I installed the new pegs and discovered this new weight problem. Someone suggested I drill holes in the ebony pegs to lighten the weight. I did this, in both shafts and knobs, and it worked. But now I had a very strange looking oud with pegs resembling black swiss cheese. I later replaced these with very light boxwood pegs. So to partially answer your question I would say to make sure that 10 to 13 pegs of whatever wood you choose weighs less than the rest of the oud. These particular ebony pegs were very heavy. Ebony pegs are usually fine though. As for Alder, Red Meranti, etc, I don't see why not. Good luck!
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Dr. Oud
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[*] posted on 8-23-2013 at 07:30 AM


The peg material is not important, as long as the peg is harder than the peg box wall. Otherwise, the peg shank (shaft) will compress instead of wedging into the peg box hole. This is evident by a step or flange in the peg shank, then the peg will not seat and will slip.



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