antekboodzik
Oud Junkie
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Registered: 5-24-2010
Location: north poland
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lute pegbox design
I would like to ask for advise some experienced builders about some principles of lute pegbox design. Please, help me.
Things seem to be nothing but easy, but I got some confusions.
For my next instrument, I decided to make its neck with Black Alder core veneered with ca 1mm maple veener. It seems to be good choice - Alder is
spoken to be very stable, and maple veneer provide enough durability for its surface. So my idea is to make pegbox "walls" in the same way. Here are
just prepared, oversized in lenght, "walls" of the same alder, temporairly layed on slightly thicker (1.2-1.3mm) piece of maple veneer. I am planning
to veneer outer sides of walls also with maple. Is it a good idea? Would it be a disadvantage, when reaming pegholes or if pegs get stuck with contact
with glue (hide glue)?
Also, I found that making lower and small, top blocks of pegbox is quite difficult and dispiriting job. With some trials, it was hard for me to keep
ends of these blocks at correct angles, matching taper of the pegbox, along with right angles (vertically) to the bottom surface. How it is done
without a bandsaw or so? Which saws/chisel/jigs to use?
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jdowning
Oud Junkie
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The small blocks are first made long enough so that they can be planed to the required angle for a perfect fit. They are then glued to the peg box
sides after which all excess material is removed and the peg box finished to size. This is how I make a peg box for oud or lute - step by step with
images, pages 11 and 12.
http://www.mikeouds.com/messageboard/viewthread.php?tid=8488&pa...
Alder may be too soft as a core material for the sides. The glue line between the veneer and core will not cause any problems - it is (or should be!)
so thin.
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Dr. Oud
Oud Junkie
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Veneer on a pegbox wall is not recommended. The pegs will not seat properly unless the wall is a consistent material and softer than the peg. Good
pegbox wall materials are walnut, maple, other medium hardwoods. Avoid rosewood, ebony etc, they are too hard and the peg will distort instead of
seating in the peg hole. Avoid too soft woods like mahogany, alder, cypress, etc. The cannot withstand the pressure of the peg seating and often will
split.
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jdowning
Oud Junkie
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Location: Ontario, Canada
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Judging from surviving instruments, the sides (walls) of lute peg boxes of the late 16th C /17th C were commonly veneered with ebony of 0.5 mm
thickness - ebony being the wood of choice for the veneer. Wall material - substantially thicker than the veneer - was usually Beechwood.
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antekboodzik
Oud Junkie
Posts: 109
Registered: 5-24-2010
Location: north poland
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Thanks for your support.
However, yesterday I just finished the pegbox  I made it exactly the way jdowning
proposed on this forum. Here are some pictures of the finished pegbox and temporairly put parts of my next lute.
The bowl is made from 1,5 mm maple veener, neck and pegbox are adler core with the same maple veener. The main reason for using adler was its
availability here (in opposite to maple), and quite similar visual apperance to Maple wood. Eventually, I found that it is not so hard to glue some
veener to a neck, so it is... And I decided to veener pegbox sides too. But I think it would work nice with Cherry wood used for pegs, which is not so
hard at all.
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Dr. Oud
Oud Junkie
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Registered: 12-18-2002
Location: Sacramento, CA, USA
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Cherry is not very hard unless the pegbox is made of even softer wood, then there's a risk of failure of the wall, splitting between the holes. You
can test a cherry peg, pushing it firmly into the peg hole and see if the peg deforms. If the peg shank compresses it is too soft and will not seat
properly in the peg holes.
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muhssin
Oud Addict
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Registered: 3-28-2013
Location: Germany
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@antekboodzik
is the neck beeing hold with bolt and nut?
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antekboodzik
Oud Junkie
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Location: north poland
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No, it is temporairly hold by ordinary screw and a nut used as a distancer.
However, brill' question
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