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Author: Subject: My first oud
jdowning
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[*] posted on 11-21-2016 at 03:07 PM


If the axial misalignment is very small (and as long as the strings will all lie in alignment over the fingerboard) then I would leave things as they are now. The ends of the braces should all be a close fit against the side ribs of the bowl. To check this temporarily firmly clamp the sound board at the neck block position so that it cannot shift out of alignment and then go around the sound board edge slightly lifting it at each brace end location. Listen and feel for the end of the brace rubbing against the bowl rib as the sound board edge is moved back into contact with the rib. Also look at the end of each brace as the sound board is raised to visually assess if the fit is close.
As the sound hole is open at present another check would be to examine the fit of the braces from within - with sound board clamped in position - using a dentist's inspection mirror and light source or - if available - a low cost digital endoscope. I have not tried this (lutes do not have open sound holes!) but it should be possible. I am currently testing a low cost Chinese digital endoscope (costing only CAN $12!) to see how it might perform as an inspection tool for luthiers for this and other applications. I will post a report on the results sometime when I can get around to it.

It is of course important structurally (and acoustically) that all of the brace ends should be a close fit against the bowl side rib but it is not an easy task to make everything a perfect fit (like everything about making an oud!). Go slowly and take your time and all will be well in the end.

The rosette looks just fine to me as it is, Well done! When I cut lute rosettes (using chisels/knives not saws) I leave everything as it comes fresh off the knife and do not fuss with any clean up (that could spoil the crisp appearance of the finished work). I do usually chip carve the face of a rosette in accordance with lute tradition which does help to improve the appearance but this is easier done in the sound board softwood of a lute than it would in a hard wood rosette material - and one slip of the knife can ruin everything! I leave the paper rosette pattern glued in place as reinforcement - as was the way with early lutes.
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faggiuols
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[*] posted on 11-22-2016 at 02:56 AM


thanks Jdowning
I will check, as you suggest, the contact between braces and bowl.
I have the feeling that in the current location are all in contact.

about the rosette I will make small not invasive tests to understand if the aesthetic go better or worse, and then I will decide what to do.
I do not like it very much as it is now!
thanks a lot for everything.
to the next
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faggiuols
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[*] posted on 1-4-2017 at 08:54 AM


Goodmorning everyone
I'm coming to the final stage of the construction of my first oud.
I attach the picture of the current state. I'm digging the position for the beard.
soon I'll be ready for painting and, finally, to hear the voice of the oud.
I need some suggestions for the strings to mounted on. someone could advise me make and model of strings that I have to buy?
I thank you all in advance.

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faggiuols
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[*] posted on 1-19-2017 at 09:14 AM


What do you think of these string?


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Etman
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[*] posted on 1-19-2017 at 08:48 PM


I have tried them for the last 5 months ... I found them to be excellent and very good quality with nice sound .. I use the C-c tuning... I30
I do not think you will regret it .
I like the Aquila strings



Yasser
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faggiuols
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[*] posted on 1-20-2017 at 12:09 AM


Quote: Originally posted by Etman  
I have tried them for the last 5 months ... I found them to be excellent and very good quality with nice sound .. I use the C-c tuning... I30
I do not think you will regret it .
I like the Aquila strings



Yasser



thank you very much Etman
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faggiuols
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[*] posted on 2-24-2017 at 07:08 AM


I was not able to resist the temptation to feel the oud voice!!!!
:D

I used the following tuning with Aquila strings:
F A D g c f
but I do not know which octaves I am!
There are two octaves between the F and the f?
tuning f, I broke the string twice!
can someone help me?

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obar
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[*] posted on 3-1-2017 at 02:56 AM


The low F should be one halfstep above the low E on a guitar I think (I use C-cc tuning myself). Assuming that you are tuning your oud F A d g c f, the lowest string should be three octaves below the highest f. This gives the oud three and a half octaves of range.

Where do the strings break? At the nut or in between?

Edit: oops, two octaves apart. My mind went low F= first octave, High f= thrid octave.
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newlife_ks
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[*] posted on 3-1-2017 at 05:01 AM


As far as I know the Aquila strings in the red package should be the 130 set which is used for C F A d g c tuning. Have a look at the package! If you really tuned them a fourth higher than given you'd better not wonder why they break.



Greetings from Klaus in Germany!
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faggiuols
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[*] posted on 3-1-2017 at 08:20 AM


Quote: Originally posted by obar  
The low F should be one halfstep above the low E on a guitar I think (I use C-cc tuning myself). Assuming that you are tuning your oud F A d g c f, the lowest string should be three octaves below the highest f. This gives the oud three and a half octaves of range.

Where do the strings break? At the nut or in between?

Edit: oops, two octaves apart. My mind went low F= first octave, High f= thrid octave.


thanks Obar
in fact I've tuning to two octaves.
so I was not wrong!
the string broke twice, the first near the nut, the second time near the bridge.
I think therefore that the string was defective because I was tuning in right note.
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faggiuols
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[*] posted on 3-1-2017 at 08:23 AM


Quote: Originally posted by newlife_ks  
As far as I know the Aquila strings in the red package should be the 130 set which is used for C F A d g c tuning. Have a look at the package! If you really tuned them a fourth higher than given you'd better not wonder why they break.


I checked. The correct notes were written on small envelopes containing the single string.
So I do not think I was wrong. the string was defective unfortunately!
thanks a lot newlife_ks for your message
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faggiuols
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[*] posted on 3-22-2017 at 01:57 AM


Goodmorning everyone
I finally arrived at the end of my big trip in the construction of my first oud !!
They are ready to paint it.
I have a big doubt! The fretboard is to be painted or left to wood?
thanks to those who will help me.

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SamirCanada
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[*] posted on 3-22-2017 at 05:37 AM


Leave it to wood. you can put some lemon oil on it if you want to condition it a little bit.



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faggiuols
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[*] posted on 3-22-2017 at 07:42 AM


Quote: Originally posted by SamirCanada  
Leave it to wood. you can put some lemon oil on it if you want to condition it a little bit.


thanks a lot Samir
can I also use tru oil?


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[*] posted on 3-22-2017 at 08:49 AM


tru oil is a varnish that will dry on top of the wood. What happens is after playing for a few weeks the strings will make grooves into the varnish and it will start to buzz.

lemon oil will penetrate the wood and give it a darker appearance but not dry on top.




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faggiuols
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[*] posted on 3-22-2017 at 08:54 AM


Quote: Originally posted by SamirCanada  
tru oil is a varnish that will dry on top of the wood. What happens is after playing for a few weeks the strings will make grooves into the varnish and it will start to buzz.

lemon oil will penetrate the wood and give it a darker appearance but not dry on top.


very clear!
grazie
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