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faggiuols
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[*] posted on 11-20-2014 at 07:37 AM


Fritz very nice !!
strument special one is coming.
I would like to know: what are the markings of the rosette?
they mean something in particular?
thanks
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[*] posted on 11-20-2014 at 02:50 PM


Quote: Originally posted by faggiuols  
Fritz very nice !!
strument special one is coming.
I would like to know: what are the markings of the rosette?
they mean something in particular?
thanks


Hi faggiuols

Yes, ofcourse there is a special "text" in it :

It has the Maqamat music scales Arabic, Persian & Turkish names: famous rast, nahawand, hijaz, sikah etc... so told me by AlFaraby. The original is a rosette by NAHAT... AlFaraby modified it and implemented my real name in the center, difficult to write (speak) in arabic letters. But... I think, he has done a very good job !

I´m just assembling the braces now... the top will be mounted soon...

Greetings

Fritz




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[*] posted on 11-20-2014 at 03:35 PM


Fritz dear !

I like to thank you for the credit you've given me to design your logo inside the old well known Maqamat rosette. I have reformulated the old calligraphy in the supposedly Nahat design, adding some touches and replacing some letters.

However, it seems it's not a Nahat's matchless style, now when we see it on other makers' oud like the Hasbany's Bro. 1921 listed in ebay lately. It came as a surprise to me, this maker's name & the rosette.

Great job
Yours indeed
Alfaraby




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[*] posted on 11-21-2014 at 10:00 AM


Quote: Originally posted by Fritz  
Quote: Originally posted by faggiuols  
Fritz very nice !!
strument special one is coming.
I would like to know: what are the markings of the rosette?
they mean something in particular?
thanks


Hi faggiuols

Yes, ofcourse there is a special "text" in it :

It has the Maqamat music scales Arabic, Persian & Turkish names: famous rast, nahawand, hijaz, sikah etc... so told me by AlFaraby. The original is a rosette by NAHAT... AlFaraby modified it and implemented my real name in the center, difficult to write (speak) in arabic letters. But... I think, he has done a very good job !

I´m just assembling the braces now... the top will be mounted soon...

Greetings

Fritz

thanks Fritz

I'd like to see a picture near to the hole where you see decorations well.
you can post that!
thanks
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[*] posted on 11-21-2014 at 03:40 PM


Quote: Originally posted by Alfaraby  
Fritz dear !

I like to thank you for the credit you've given me to design your logo inside the old well known Maqamat rosette. I have reformulated the old calligraphy in the supposedly Nahat design, adding some touches and replacing some letters.

However, it seems it's not a Nahat's matchless style, now when we see it on other makers' oud like the Hasbany's Bro. 1921 listed in ebay lately. It came as a surprise to me, this maker's name & the rosette.

Great job
Yours indeed
Alfaraby


Dear AlFaraby...

When anybody has to thank, that´s me !

If it´s a Nahat or not.... I saw some designs nearly equal to the Nahat you sent me... slightly differeing... but the beauty is untouched ...

Since years I wished to get a good template to apply such a rostte in one of my Ouds.... and you haven´t hesitated a second to improve me !

When we see the result... that´s it !

Speaks for itself..

Many thanks to you, Sir ! :)

Fritz




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[*] posted on 11-21-2014 at 03:42 PM


Quote: Originally posted by faggiuols  
Quote: Originally posted by Fritz  
Quote: Originally posted by faggiuols  
Fritz very nice !!
strument special one is coming.
I would like to know: what are the markings of the rosette?
they mean something in particular?
thanks


Hi faggiuols

Yes, ofcourse there is a special "text" in it :

It has the Maqamat music scales Arabic, Persian & Turkish names: famous rast, nahawand, hijaz, sikah etc... so told me by AlFaraby. The original is a rosette by NAHAT... AlFaraby modified it and implemented my real name in the center, difficult to write (speak) in arabic letters. But... I think, he has done a very good job !

I´m just assembling the braces now... the top will be mounted soon...

Greetings

Fritz

thanks Fritz

I'd like to see a picture near to the hole where you see decorations well.
you can post that!
thanks


Hey

Okay... here you get it :-)





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[*] posted on 11-22-2014 at 02:59 AM


great and excellent!!!:applause:
but you cut with a coping saw or have a machine?
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[*] posted on 11-24-2014 at 08:37 AM


Quote: Originally posted by faggiuols  
great and excellent!!!:applause:
but you cut with a coping saw or have a machine?


I made it with an ordinary saw with a very fine blade by hand. With a mashine you haven´t got the contol on every cutting stroke... no reaction feelable from the blade to the saw-holding hand... I prefere cutting by hand... may be in the future by laser... when I´ve sold a few Ouds :-) (just a dream :( ... )

All the best

Fritz




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[*] posted on 11-24-2014 at 09:02 AM


Quote: Originally posted by Fritz  
Quote: Originally posted by faggiuols  
great and excellent!!!:applause:
but you cut with a coping saw or have a machine?


I made it with an ordinary saw with a very fine blade by hand. With a mashine you haven´t got the contol on every cutting stroke... no reaction feelable from the blade to the saw-holding hand... I prefere cutting by hand... may be in the future by laser... when I´ve sold a few Ouds :-) (just a dream :( ... )

All the best

Fritz


Wow !!
Double large and excellent !!
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[*] posted on 12-7-2014 at 04:03 PM


The top is mounted... so I can continue making the neck and the pegbox... here are some pix of the process

Ich made the sides of the pegbox slim and rigid... with the nice maple outside and the mahogany from the last ribs in the inner parts. Between them I decided to make a grain-crossing layer of hard mahogany, not for the contrast, but for stabelizing the holes when drilled and with pegs inserted. So these wood-sides cant split when a peg is pressed in too hard. I think, this is a good idea and I perhaps will make it on every next Oud-pegbox. This methode decreases the weight and optical massivity and so I can use relatively slim layers of wood. I pressed very heavy these wood-layers together, so there isn´t a bubble of air inbetween... this is the main thing to observe.
Also the pegs will be able to turn with less needed power as usual because of the smaller surface in both cones. With good (genuiene) peg-soap it will be easy to turn the pegs and they will ofcourse hold the tune...



[file]33609[/file] [file]33611[/file] [file]33613[/file]




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[*] posted on 12-9-2014 at 03:00 PM


The next step :)

The sides of the pegbox are ready, and I began to prepare the neck... the core with anextra hardwood inside to make the neck stiffer against torsion and coming up sometimes.
I decided to make the fingerboard a bit thicker to prevent any moving of the neck... it will begin with 4mm thickness and ends uo with may be 6mm at the saddle...

The kanna i use are very good, fine japanese blades with two layers of different steel... making it not easy to tune the blade... bur it works well if tuned to a precise setting









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[*] posted on 12-10-2014 at 05:05 AM


Even the woodchips are nice !
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[*] posted on 12-10-2014 at 02:51 PM


Quote: Originally posted by Microber  
Even the woodchips are nice !


Hi Rob

Yes... they are... and I hesitated to throw them away, but I did :-)

The kanna was very fine tuned for those slices, planing the wood in one stroke on the whole surface nearly without stressing... slowly and straight... it was a pleasure to see the chips comming up in the Kanna... I like mixing the work with aesthetical moments...

Oh how I like the japanese blades... in every kind... as there are knifes, blades for some tools like kanna... and ofcourse the genuine swords... In the past I restauratetd, classified and polished some very old Katana- and Tachi-blades and some daggers of the Koto and Shinto-period (okay... some good Gendaito, too)... So I had the "luck" to have some nice (and very expensive) stones here to sharpen the blades of my japanese wood-working tools. My Nomi have a mirror-like finish... only made with water and stone ! The are going through the wood like a hot wire through butter... :)





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[*] posted on 12-14-2014 at 02:45 AM


An update :)

The neck is mounted, the fingerboard, too, the angle against the top is nearly perfect to have an action by about 2,5mm. See the wood in the middle of the neck-wood going through the whole neck preventing any bending and torsion. The fretboard is nearly 5mm in thickness at the saddle, at the beginning about 4mm. There isn´t much to complete this Oud... so the next pix are coming soon...



[file]33656[/file] [file]33652[/file] [file]33654[/file]




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[*] posted on 12-15-2014 at 02:45 AM


hello Fritz
I always follow very carefully to learn!
your work is very nice.
I hope you post pictures of the cut to be carried on the neck to mount the pegbox.
I can not find a system that allows a good job without the use of machines that I have not.
How do you do it?
thanks
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[*] posted on 12-17-2014 at 12:34 PM


Quote: Originally posted by faggiuols  
hello Fritz
I always follow very carefully to learn!
your work is very nice.
I hope you post pictures of the cut to be carried on the neck to mount the pegbox.
I can not find a system that allows a good job without the use of machines that I have not.
How do you do it?
thanks


Hi faggiuols

There are many kind Oud-maker here in the forum... try to get the most info possible, not only from me :-) My method could be fine, but there are surely a lot of tips if you search for in some threads.

But ofcourse I will give as much I can with postings and pix. The next fingerboard is assembled to the mahogany Oud... very precisely attached in line with the bridge and the coming strings. I had to snad it down more at the saddle as I wanted, so there are at least 5mm left in thickness... thick enough to be able sand and plane again after some years, when the end of the neck is coming higher for a mm. I hope it won´t, but who knows. This neck is really stiff, very tight assemled to the neck blocck with my special methode. I´ll make some pix soon, and you will get an idea how to prpare for assembling the pegbox...
This isn´t a secret, you have to work precisely and before glueing the adapted pegbox (with neck allready assembled or not) be aware the pegbox is fitted as tight as possible, there has to be no gap between the wood parts. And... keep in mind that the pegbox won´t fit with glue as it does without ! There might be a mm more standing over the neck end as you have planned,,, because the glue needs a bit space. This is important when using special measured bones for the saddle.
You don´t need any mashines to make this joint, only a good saw, a fine ruler made of steel with half mms to check the way the pegbox goes in the neck... and perhaps a jig for the sawing angle where the pegbox-bottom meets the neck...

The next days I will post my progress with those Ouds...




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[*] posted on 12-18-2014 at 01:11 PM


Today I made the slot for the pegbox... and simultaneously some pix for faggiuols... to see how I am making this...

I hope these pix and the description is enough to make clear how it´s done...

First I lay the neck with the fingerboard down on my jig... clamping it in the righ position to make sure the saw will meet the horizontal sawing cut... alining this cut with the jig.. keeping in mind the space the saw will need in the wood.

Clamping this complete to the workbench... sawing carefully until the cut reaches the slot allready sawn horizontal... leaving this typical piece of different woods the neck is made of.

Exactly this piece I use as a sanding template to equal the surfaces, the horizontal and the just sawn.

In mind that the pegbox will have a bottom closing, I make the slot exactly wider as the bottom wood will be in thickness. So there will be left enough space for the bone saddle.

Trying one side of the pegbox shows the matching angle I was sawing with this jig...




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[*] posted on 12-19-2014 at 06:09 AM


:applause:

I will use your technique from now on.




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[*] posted on 12-20-2014 at 01:32 AM


Quote: Originally posted by Fritz  
Today I made the slot for the pegbox... and simultaneously some pix for faggiuols... to see how I am making this...

I hope these pix and the description is enough to make clear how it´s done...

First I lay the neck with the fingerboard down on my jig... clamping it in the righ position to make sure the saw will meet the horizontal sawing cut... alining this cut with the jig.. keeping in mind the space the saw will need in the wood.

Clamping this complete to the workbench... sawing carefully until the cut reaches the slot allready sawn horizontal... leaving this typical piece of different woods the neck is made of.

Exactly this piece I use as a sanding template to equal the surfaces, the horizontal and the just sawn.

In mind that the pegbox will have a bottom closing, I make the slot exactly wider as the bottom wood will be in thickness. So there will be left enough space for the bone saddle.

Trying one side of the pegbox shows the matching angle I was sawing with this jig...

thanks Fritz
the way is clear.
I see that the fingerboard is already glued!
is also very simple.
thanks a lot for spigazione. I'm still assembling the ribs of my oud.
I'm very lento. I removed some ribs even twice because the light came through. I'm to the seventh rib mounted .I do not lose heart!
I'll be able to finish the bowl!
I hope soon to update my argument with images.
soon
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[*] posted on 12-20-2014 at 09:04 AM


Quote: Originally posted by SamirCanada  
:applause:

I will use your technique from now on.


Hey Samir :)

Try it ! Important is the angle og the jig, when you have allready an angle for pegboxes. I make the boxes matching these angles with a template, so every box is equal in this angle, you know ?
Then make a jig, when you have chosen an angle for the pegboxes. Also important is to hold the sawing blade down on the jig when sawing... with perhaps two fingers... not to slip on the untouched wood of the neck. Push and pull the blade slowly and accurate under the two fingers until the blade is really inside the wood and has made it´s own slot for sawing the leaving millimeters. There you need no fingers anymore. Please be carefull with the last mm... not to cut more than needed. Very soft strokes with the blade ... allways looking for the point to reach on both sides.

Take double sided adhesive tape for the sanding paper on the piece sawn off from the neck, functioning as a small sanding block. Decide by yourself if you apply sanding paper on both surfaces of this little block... the even area, and on the angle... I make only one side... so the block slides more easily trough the sawn triangle. The flat surface is more important to give a good flat area to glue the top of the pegbox. Than adapt the sawn angle exactly to the pegbox. You may also adapt a bit on the pegbox-area wich will be glued by scraping with a rounded blade with a big radius... but : The blade has to be round ! In other case you will remove too much wood on the edges of the pegbox... then they will not fit as wanted. Scrape in the middle of the wideness of the pegbox AND with the sanding block at the upcoming angle of the neck until the two parts fit perfectly.

Have good luck with this :-)

Best wishes

Fritz







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[*] posted on 12-20-2014 at 09:12 AM


Quote: Originally posted by faggiuols  
Quote: Originally posted by Fritz  
Today I made the slot for the pegbox... and simultaneously some pix for faggiuols... to see how I am making this...

I hope these pix and the description is enough to make clear how it´s done...

First I lay the neck with the fingerboard down on my jig... clamping it in the righ position to make sure the saw will meet the horizontal sawing cut... alining this cut with the jig.. keeping in mind the space the saw will need in the wood.

Clamping this complete to the workbench... sawing carefully until the cut reaches the slot allready sawn horizontal... leaving this typical piece of different woods the neck is made of.

Exactly this piece I use as a sanding template to equal the surfaces, the horizontal and the just sawn.

In mind that the pegbox will have a bottom closing, I make the slot exactly wider as the bottom wood will be in thickness. So there will be left enough space for the bone saddle.

Trying one side of the pegbox shows the matching angle I was sawing with this jig...

thanks Fritz
the way is clear.
I see that the fingerboard is already glued!
is also very simple.
thanks a lot for spigazione. I'm still assembling the ribs of my oud.
I'm very lento. I removed some ribs even twice because the light came through. I'm to the seventh rib mounted .I do not lose heart!
I'll be able to finish the bowl!
I hope soon to update my argument with images.
soon


It is not importatnt to glue the fingerboard first.. but so you can use more pressure to glue it, when the pegbox isn´t mounted yet. Glueing the fingerborad : Keep in mind the wood for the fingerborad soakes the humidity of the glue ! So it wind tend to bend the sides away from the neck-wood... you might get a gap there ! To avoid this awful failure please soke the other surface (not the glueing side) with water for a while to give the "counterpart" of abilty to bend. So you have the edges down on the neckwood when preparing the glueing. Pressing the neck with fingerboard on the bench the humidity will go out not as fast as the glue dries... meaning the fingerboard will alleways be with pressure at the sides during the drying time. So you will have a perfect joint and an even surface.

Use all the time you need to make progress ! Make it good, not fast ! Keep calm while building your first complete Oud :-)

Fritz




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[*] posted on 12-21-2014 at 11:50 AM


New update...

The pegbox... The sides are assembled, the bottom is mounted... in the way I show here. On one pic you will see the little japanese Kanna I made by myself with a small, very sharp blade for special works on critical parts...





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[*] posted on 12-28-2014 at 10:39 AM


The pegbox is mounted and the finish is going on... every day...

There are some pix...





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[*] posted on 12-30-2014 at 02:40 AM


wonderful

:applause::applause::applause::applause:
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[*] posted on 12-30-2014 at 03:49 AM


:bowdown:
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