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Author: Subject: Walnut fingerboard - needs treatment?
SV_T_oud
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[*] posted on 11-14-2014 at 11:09 AM
Walnut fingerboard - needs treatment?


I bought an inexpensive Turkish oud on eBay from universalact. They sell more or less acceptable stuff that often needs set-up and sometimes partial re-working.

As I said the oud is inexpensive and no one should expect miracles beyond the price tag.

The one problem I see is the fingerboard is walnut. I found through Internet search that walnut is rather soft wood subjective to abrasion.

If I want to prolong the life of this board should I treat it? For instance I could give it a coat of transparent epoxy, let it cure and then lightly sand. Will it work?

Any other suggestions to impregnate the walnut wood?
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antekboodzik
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[*] posted on 11-14-2014 at 03:09 PM


I used a little of linseed oil (boiled, from a shop for painters) on a couple of instrument, even very cheap mandolins with sapelle "mahogany" fingerboards, and there were no particular problems... You can just wipe a little of it with soft cloth along the fingerboard and let it dry for a day or two.
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antekboodzik
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[*] posted on 11-15-2014 at 03:38 AM


Now I remember that Dan Erlewine in his DVDs about (re)fretting guitars was presenting the usage of dilluted CA glue to repair, and stabilize old, worn and brittle fingerboards. You can use CA glue available for glueing artificial nails :) - make sure it is a CA glue (not acetone with poly-styrene), it should be much more dilluted than so called SuperGlue, and should penetrate wood deeper.

Also, it could be possible to dillute ordinary CA glue with acetone...
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SV_T_oud
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[*] posted on 11-15-2014 at 07:39 AM


Regarding the layer of epoxy: it's not my idea. I got it on some guitar building forum where the walnut fingerboard was discussed.

This is brown color walnut and I suppose it's African walnut which is said to be closely related to Mahogany family rather than "true walnuts" whatever that is. As such it's said to be more dense and more resistant to abrasion but it's still behind Rosewood in these qualities.
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antekboodzik
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[*] posted on 11-15-2014 at 02:54 PM


Epoxy glue won't penetrate wood.

If it is an open pore wood (OR with severe damage from playing) the epoxy may act like pore filler, and may be ok. If it is close pore wood, I wonder, how do you plan to make consistient "film" of it. Sanding the fingerboard after putting this kind of glue could make it worse, as you may expose some spots of bare wood from coating.

Another idea - hardwood floor tiles usually have a coat of very hard laquer. Try get to know, what it is, and if it can be painted over fingerboard of your instrument.
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[*] posted on 11-16-2014 at 07:02 AM


Quote: Originally posted by antekboodzik  
Epoxy glue won't penetrate wood.


I doubt the epoxy needs to penetrate the wood. It should bond to the wood. No?

In this video they use a special kind of epoxy after the sealer:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D09mhf1eXPQ

Is that kind of epoxy what you call special lacquer?
Actualy I didn't intend to find that video, I found it by accident.

I was talking about a usual two-component commercial epoxy you find in hardware/home repair stores.

Regarding epoxy application: I'm quite handy at that as I have good experience in wall dressing with plaster. It takes practice to learn how to apply a layer of flexible stuff on a hard surface but when you get it it stays with you.
I mean that wall dressing experience helped me with similar aplications. You just need to get into it.

However I agree with you - it's hard in general terms to make a flat uniform surface with one epoxy coat. It may take couple layers to even out the surface. Maybe three with sanding in between layer applications and curing.
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[*] posted on 11-19-2014 at 12:50 PM


I may have chosen a wrong forum section. I thought the subject of my original post was more related to ''maintenance" rather then the "project and oud building" section but judging by the rate of responses I doubt I've made a correct choice.

Anyway, I searched the Internet and found a video on Facebook of a professional electric bass luthier who shows how to epoxy the bass fretless fingerboard (I guess you could call it 'fretboard' but it would be wrong; however he does it :) ). The type of epoxy he uses is again that liquid type commonly applied to bar table tops I mentioned before.

Here is a link to the video (there are a few videos in his Facebook blog on the subject):
https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=478919118814359&set=vb.1533...

Well, not exactly what I was thinking (thick two component epoxy) but at least it somehow proves my point: it can be done and people do it.

There is of course no comparison between amount of expected wear on bass vs oud but on the other hand people do it with rosewood and ebony on basses and if you try to interpolate that to oud it could be similar in terms of lighter oud strings and at the same time softer walnut fingerboard.

And here someone is using superglue for the same purpose on fretless bass again (pictures):
http://badassbassplayers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5078

Here is another epoxy treatment project:
http://www.talkbass.com/threads/epoxy-on-a-fretless-warmoth-neck-by...
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SamirCanada
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[*] posted on 11-19-2014 at 01:39 PM


its not a common topic because finding walnut fingerboards or other soft woods is pretty rare.

did you read this tread? http://www.mikeouds.com/messageboard/viewthread.php?tid=9763&pa...

you will find it interesting, he coated his fingerboard with superglue but epoxy like you are talking about would also be good.

I think if I had this issue, I would be more inclinded to make a new fingerboard of a harder wood than coating the walnut one, I find a shiny oud neck doesnt look nice.




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[*] posted on 11-20-2014 at 04:21 AM


Samir, thanks for replying.
I don't think your last suggestion to swap the fingerboard applies here. It's a budget oud. The shiny fingerboard is not an issue here as well so super glue coating might be appropriate. Besides I also mentioned it as an option in my earlier self-reply.

I don't think you may call walnut a "soft wood". It's harder than spruce but softer than ebony. It's often used for banjo necks. It's hard enough to withstand the load but it's less abrasion resistant than ebony and rosewood.

It's often used for fingerboards on budget ouds.

Quote: Originally posted by SamirCanada  
its not a common topic because finding walnut fingerboards or other soft woods is pretty rare.

did you read this tread? http://www.mikeouds.com/messageboard/viewthread.php?tid=9763&pa...

you will find it interesting, he coated his fingerboard with superglue but epoxy like you are talking about would also be good.

I think if I had this issue, I would be more inclinded to make a new fingerboard of a harder wood than coating the walnut one, I find a shiny oud neck doesnt look nice.
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[*] posted on 11-20-2014 at 05:31 AM


Hi SVT I was just sugesting what I might do since an ebony fingerboard would cost aproximately $5 to $10. I dont know your abilities nor your access to wood working tools. Anyhow I thought you would like this thread about the CA fingerboard. Good luck with your project.

Regarding walnut for fingerboards, like you say its technically a hard wood but really, it doesnt resit wear from the strings at all and on the oud this causes buzzing in a hurry. I am not sure the reason is purely economical as walnut can be expensive and in the size for fingerboards its not a big difference between rosewood and ebony or even other woods like maple. I think it's probably also driven by ease of work, walnut is so easy to work where as the harder woods are a pain.




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[*] posted on 11-20-2014 at 09:17 AM


No problem, I didn't argue, it's just my word to defend the walnut to the extent it deserves.
I caught you with the number of messages = 3000. Congratulations! It doesn't last for long. :)

And yes, they probably use it because it's easy to work with.
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