SamirCanada
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Question about the endclasp or endcap
Typically ouds don't have a thick end cap like Lutes. If they do it is usually a veneer over the ribs or it is inlaid in the tail bloc and flush with
the ribs.
There is nothing wrong with adding an end cap though.
As you say, I would do it before the soundboard for sure that way you can use clamps. I would put the binding after... that just me thought.
If you want to make it like flush with the soundboard then its better to glue after the soundboard is on. If you glue it before it will be hard to cut
the soundboard to sink in exactly.
if you really want to glue it after the soundboard then I would make it thinner 1.5mm and bend it to match the outside curve. I wouldn't use clamps...
just a lot of painters tape with glue.
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jdowning
Oud Junkie
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Location: Ontario, Canada
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I do not know of any surviving old lutes that have been constructed with the end clasp glued to the bowl after the sound board has been glued in
place. I am therefore curious to learn details about any historical lute that may have been made this way.
The end clasp on a lute is an integral part of the bowl construction and is usually fitted and glued in place while the bowl is still on the mold.
Thickness of an end clasp is about the same as rib thickness - say about 1.5 mm. After gluing the end clasp to the bowl the edge of the bowl is planed
flat ready to receive the sound board.
On a lute - after the bowl has been removed from the mold - a spruce counter clasp about 5 mm thick is hot bent, fitted and glued inside the bowl
behind the end clasp. This is then trimmed level with the rest of the bowl edge. The combined thickness of the clasp and counter clasp with the bowl
ribs sandwiched between makes for a very rigid bowl section below the bridge position - the ends of the clasp(s) extending around the bottom edge of
the bowl almost as far as the bridge location.
After gluing a lute sound board in place the sound board edges may be left as is or reinforced with banding set in to half the depth of sound board
thickness or - as found on later lutes of the 17th C - with a silk or fine linen tape glued around the edge (known as the 'lace'), half width on the
sound board face and half on the bowl. The glue used of course is always hot hide glue - reversible to allow the lace (and sound board) to be removed
in the event of need for sound board repair.
I cannot comment on general practice as it might apply to ouds.
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jdowning
Oud Junkie
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Location: Ontario, Canada
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By way of contrast - in this project I chose to instal the counter clasp (end plate) before the end clasp due to the spherical geometry of the end of
the bowl creating fitting difficulties - this meant that both operations were undertaken with the bowl removed from the mold but completed before
fitting the sound board. Care had to be taken to minimise any bowl distortion caused by clamping the parts in place.
http://www.mikeouds.com/messageboard/viewthread.php?tid=8488&pa...
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