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Africain
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[*] posted on 4-21-2005 at 05:11 PM
What will hapen if ...


what will hapen if :
1
I use only one kind of wood like spruce to build to entire oud.
2
I change to peg box, I use the classical guitare peg box with its metalic tuner.
3
I use only 9 ribs instead of 13 .
4
I use new wood, not an aged dry wood and let the oud dry with the time.
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SamirCanada
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[*] posted on 4-22-2005 at 02:50 PM


well... from what I know spruce is a very lite wood used only for the sound board. it has to much fibre I would think to use to make a bowl.

I have heard that machine tuning pegs a are too heavy witch makes your oud feel unstable. I would get pegs well fited instead of puting a machine head. It looks terrible also!

I dunno about the number of Ribs.. I'll let the Dr. awnser that.

and finaly I dont think using new wood is a good idea because aged wood is much more stable. As your oud ages the bracings and other contact points will move and become fragile I think the someone might confirm this as a possible theory.

good luck
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Africain
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[*] posted on 4-23-2005 at 11:49 AM


Hi samir
Thank for your replay
You are right, machine tuning pegs is too heavy, my freind has one oud with it, it's instable, but beleive the string are too much stables, it's a reliable oud, and it's realy wonderful to tune the oud with the machine tuning pegs. it's safe
75% of the oud that I have seen have a major problem in the peg box, so why we don't use the metalic pegs?
Regards
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SamirCanada
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[*] posted on 4-23-2005 at 12:13 PM


You are proabably right about machine pegs holding better. But there's always a way to get your pegs to work properly although it takes for ever it seems... the more you do it the better you get at tuning with pegs. But If I had a concert or studio recording I would maybe concider machine pegs just for the safety they provide.
cheers
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Africain
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[*] posted on 4-23-2005 at 02:02 PM


Quote:
But If I had a concert or studio recording I would maybe concider machine pegs just for the safety they provide.
cheers

Hi samir, I agree with you
what will you do if you have 3 concerts per week during a year?
:)
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Dr. Oud
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[*] posted on 4-24-2005 at 07:30 AM


Spruce is rather stiff and very soft between the grain. Bending to shape would be risky and difficult. Fruit or nut woods are best for the back, they are stable, flexible and not too hard.
Spruce, cedar, pine or redwood are used for soundboards because here you want the least mass or weight to alow longer vibration cycles (sustain).
Building with green unseasond wood will be a disaster because the glue joints will fail when the wood shrinks as it dries out. Better to get seasoned wood - at least a year of air drying with the material cut to rough thickness and stacked with spacers to allow circulation. Store it in a dry temperate place, not too hot, cold or humid.
Machine tuners have no advantage over properly fitted pegs with the pegs of harder wood than the pegbox. Machines may be better than bad pegs, true.
A low number of ribs will only make the back faceted rather than round, unless you build it very thick and carve it out . The size or volume of the back will affect the bass resonance, but not the number of ribs.




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Africain
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[*] posted on 4-24-2005 at 12:00 PM


Thank so much Mr Richard Hankey,
I did'nt know those problems, I have bought your wonderful book, but I wanted just the reduce the work :rolleyes: but It seems very hard to construct the ud.
I did'nt start yet, I m'as thinking how to build the bend machine, and how many tools that I need for my first try, I'm afraid to loose money and time and the results are no good.
That's why I wanted to buy cheap wood, and fast methodes to construct my first ud
I think that I have to learn woud carving, and how to cut wood.

" at least a year of air drying with the material cut to rough thickness and stacked with spacers to allow circulation."

It's very hard for me to find wood cut to rough thickness, so must I dry the pieces of the wood my self?
Thank so much
Best regrads
youssef
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