| Pages:
1
2
3 |
carpenter
Oud Junkie
Posts: 248
Registered: 8-30-2005
Location: Eugene OR
Member Is Offline
Mood: brimming with hope
|
|
Rookie wallhanger rehab
So far, so good. Got my new neck built, pegs loaded, rose whacked out; excavated the inside of the bowl (all I'm keeping of the old incarnation),
about to glue the neck on. It was quite a trip - I removed enough wood to make another bowl, and enough glue/sawdust to stick it together.
I have, on the bowl, what I believe a boat guy would call "tumblehome" - where the radius keeps going beyond 180 degrees, and starts to come around
again. Looks like it'll be a chore to slip the braces home nicely. I'm thinking of little blocks, like interrupted linings, at the appropriate places
to stop the downward trend there. Any opinions/experience in that regard?
|
|
|
Jameel
Oud Junkie
Posts: 1672
Registered: 12-5-2002
Member Is Offline
Mood: No Mood
|
|
How about some pics, carpenter?
|
|
|
Mike
Super Administrator
Posts: 1568
Registered: 12-3-2002
Location: California, USA
Member Is Offline
Mood: Happy
|
|
Welcome to the boards carpenter. I just sent you an email on how to do attachments. I look forward to following your progress on the rehab project.
|
|
|
carpenter
Oud Junkie
Posts: 248
Registered: 8-30-2005
Location: Eugene OR
Member Is Offline
Mood: brimming with hope
|
|
Pictures, sure; real soon now. have to have something to see first, other than scraps and big ideas.
As for the Lute book, coming from a violin/European instrument background, it was exciting new territory for me. And then finding out they build oud
bowls in the air! What an eye-opener! And such a cool instrument and sound! Gee, I think Im a convert...
I'm enjoying the pictures of Jameel's work. Puts what I do in the shade.
|
|
|
Dr. Oud
Oud Junkie
Posts: 1370
Registered: 12-18-2002
Location: Sacramento, CA, USA
Member Is Offline
Mood: better than before
|
|
| Quote: | | Originally posted by carpenter...I have, on the bowl, what I believe a boat guy would call "tumblehome" - where the radius keeps going beyond
180 degrees, and starts to come around again. Looks like it'll be a chore to slip the braces home nicely. I'm thinking of little blocks, like
interrupted linings, at the appropriate places to stop the downward trend there. Any opinions/experience in that regard? |
I don't know why you would want to make a bowel that is over 180 deg, it just makes fitting the braces more difficult. While some ouds in the past
have been made this way, it's usually only the tail end that actually tumbles over, while the side where braces must fit is shaped straight up. I
haven't seen this shape on ouds past 1930, and those were made by some great master builders with generations of experience. You could add some blocks
at each brace end to make fitting them possible, I suppose. I don't believe there's any advantage to the tumble over bowel except to showoff how
skilled you are, since it is a more difficult shape to build. But this is your first oud, so why challenge yourself before you have some experience
with a more conventional shape? I would shape the body down until the sides are at 180deg if I were doing it.
|
|
|
carpenter
Oud Junkie
Posts: 248
Registered: 8-30-2005
Location: Eugene OR
Member Is Offline
Mood: brimming with hope
|
|
I'm agreeing on the difficulty, but I inherited the bowl, didn't build it. (This time.) This oud was a wallhanger at a local music store since 1997, a
little busted up, neck off-center, way-soft pegs and tapers not matching, etc. Since I got it for zero, I figured it'd be a good making/repair
introduction with no Strad anxiety. They were almost ready to stuff it with dirt and plant ivy. There's moments I don't think that would've been a bad
idea, but I like a challenge - I will prevail!
The little lining blocks seem like my only option. I'll never know if I don't try. Thanks for the thoughts; your book is invaluable, as is Jameel's
building site. In-progress pictures still to come.
|
|
|
carpenter
Oud Junkie
Posts: 248
Registered: 8-30-2005
Location: Eugene OR
Member Is Offline
Mood: brimming with hope
|
|
A couple of pictures
Rose and neck - a few uh-ohs, I recommend not looking too hard. I'm fairly pleased with the neck/pegbox; the spline is a great idea. Ready to glue it
on today, I hope. I guess that German peghead design is okay for now, maybe I'll find my boxwood and fire up the lathe this winter...
|
|
|
carpenter
Oud Junkie
Posts: 248
Registered: 8-30-2005
Location: Eugene OR
Member Is Offline
Mood: brimming with hope
|
|
Oopsie
One picture at a time, evidently. Here's the neck:
|
|
|
Jonathan
Oud Junkie
Posts: 1582
Registered: 7-27-2004
Location: Los Angeles
Member Is Offline
Mood: No Mood
|
|
Was there a label inside the bowl? I am curious who built it. Also, the rose and pegbox look great. Is that your work? Where did you get the rose
design?
|
|
|
carpenter
Oud Junkie
Posts: 248
Registered: 8-30-2005
Location: Eugene OR
Member Is Offline
Mood: brimming with hope
|
|
Thanks. The rose is 1/8" maple, my work, based on the pretty-much-half that was in the oud, with some interpolation/fudging on the design. I think I
came close enough for this one...
Most of a printed label: Ayman Kassem, Oriental Lute Factory, Damascus, Syria; phone # 710177; Mohajrin - Bash Kateb Salamyeh; Date of Fabrication:
1997. That's all the English.
The neck is the last of some nice Oregon walnut, Euro beech spline, ebony pegs. That's about it.
I found some previously invisible .5mm steel pins holding the ribs to the neck block. Found 'em with my nice chisel, too - grrr. Also appears they
used those pins to hold the ribs down to a mold for assembly; left the little holes behind. My own Junior Planetarium! Oh, well...
|
|
|
carpenter
Oud Junkie
Posts: 248
Registered: 8-30-2005
Location: Eugene OR
Member Is Offline
Mood: brimming with hope
|
|
Together at last
Straight and flat, just the way I like it.
On to the top...
|
|
|
Jay
Oud Lover
Posts: 23
Registered: 5-22-2005
Location: Clemson, SC USA
Member Is Offline
Mood: Feelin' Good
|
|
Hey carpenter,
Your new neck, pegbox, & rose look great! Too bad about your chisel's run-in with those pins  Looking forward to seeing more pics!
Jay
|
|
|
carpenter
Oud Junkie
Posts: 248
Registered: 8-30-2005
Location: Eugene OR
Member Is Offline
Mood: brimming with hope
|
|
Thanks! As for the chisel, live and learn, huh? Not the end of the world, just a little bump. Hones my sharpening skills, so to speak.
I have the top (3 pcs) glued up, slipmatched, so there's hope for me yet. A little purfling, a little thicknessing, a little bracing, I'll be pickin'
and grinnin'.
The bowl seems to be made of a nice (!) walnut, works wonderfully, and something like willow or cottonwood, works like compressed Kleenex. Next time,
I'm building it myself; at least I'll know who to holler at.
|
|
|
Jameel
Oud Junkie
Posts: 1672
Registered: 12-5-2002
Member Is Offline
Mood: No Mood
|
|
carpenter,
Your work looks very clean and precise, but we need some bigger pics. Can we have some close-up larger shots of the work?
|
|
|
carpenter
Oud Junkie
Posts: 248
Registered: 8-30-2005
Location: Eugene OR
Member Is Offline
Mood: brimming with hope
|
|
Optimal attachment size
Sure. What's a good pixel x pixel dimension? .jpgs okay? Mike?
I didn't want to gobble up too much space...might handy to post a size standard for future submissions from anywhere. If I recall, the rose one was
300 pixel wide...opinions?
|
|
|
Mike
Super Administrator
Posts: 1568
Registered: 12-3-2002
Location: California, USA
Member Is Offline
Mood: Happy
|
|
Great job so far carpenter....yeah...the bigger the better. Just as long as the file is less than 1 MB, you can attach. That would be a huge picture,
so you are probably good if you go with 650 to 750 pixels wide...and jpg is perfect. Thanks for sharing your progress with us.
Best,
Mike
|
|
|
carpenter
Oud Junkie
Posts: 248
Registered: 8-30-2005
Location: Eugene OR
Member Is Offline
Mood: brimming with hope
|
|
Progress, such as it is...
Been busy scraping out the inside of the bowl - I had thicknesses 5mm - 1mm, so it's been a chore, not done yet, plenty to do otherwise. Here's a
before-and-after of the tail inlay, complete with factory-supplied pinholes and chips. (I hate to use filler; I'll figure something out.) It's nice
where it's nice, tho'. I'd be ahead time-wise if I'd built my own, but there we are, it's a rehab.
I was reduced to sanding on the outside, but it's coming right along, plenty of factory belt sander tracks that have to disappear. That dark wood is
hard! Must be a stainless/walnut alloy. Wish I had some...the light wood remains compressed Kleenex.
|
|
|
carpenter
Oud Junkie
Posts: 248
Registered: 8-30-2005
Location: Eugene OR
Member Is Offline
Mood: brimming with hope
|
|
Soundhole purfling
I wanted to do a simple dark-light-dark purfling for the sound hole. I like planing, have some nice planes, but consistent thickness and parallelism
was a wee problem. I fixed up this jig - if you look beyond the clamps, it's just a couple of stout sticks holding a scraper above a flat surface.
Worked fine, a little rough at first, but adjustable. Thickness adjustment is from the Little Brass Hammer school. (I may be patting myself on the
back as a clever guy for something that's common knowledge - if there's a better way, I'd sure like to see it.) For the few times I'll use this, it
seems to work; something more machine-shoppy and easily adjustable seems possible.
|
|
|
carpenter
Oud Junkie
Posts: 248
Registered: 8-30-2005
Location: Eugene OR
Member Is Offline
Mood: brimming with hope
|
|
One more look
Looks good to me, have to leave a little room for the glue.
Again, if anybody has a better way... artcarp@efn.org for off-the-boards stuff. (I'll show you my newly-finished hurdy-gurdy, if you like.)
|
|
|
Jameel
Oud Junkie
Posts: 1672
Registered: 12-5-2002
Member Is Offline
Mood: No Mood
|
|
Great techniques, carpenter. Check out photos 31+ here:http://www.oudmaker.com/photoshow.asp for Dincer's tool for the job. I use my spindle sander
with a fence for doing thin stuff. A drum sander would be better, but this works for small things.
|
|
|
carpenter
Oud Junkie
Posts: 248
Registered: 8-30-2005
Location: Eugene OR
Member Is Offline
Mood: brimming with hope
|
|
One more thing...
Here's my purfling channel cutter, with a test piece. A nice, squeak-fit with the purfling.
I was taken with the Dremel cutter picture in Dr Oud's book - I liked the idea of referencing from the top of the top instead of, with a circle (fly-)
cutter, from the top of a drill press table plus a top thickness...but I found myself with my good ol' antique Dremel, which doesn't fit any of the
available router bases - no screw-top. This is the result from the Looks Goofy, Works Fine, Costs Nothing Tool Co. For two finish cuts, I saved $90 to
upgrade, and it suits me.
I recommend a firm pivot point (not shown) iinto a baseboard. Other than that...1/8" cutter, 1 mm deep. Fine! And there's another pivot point for the
soundhole. I'll get on the finish cut real soon now.
|
|
|
carpenter
Oud Junkie
Posts: 248
Registered: 8-30-2005
Location: Eugene OR
Member Is Offline
Mood: brimming with hope
|
|
Got deep-throat clamps?
Me neither. Here's go-bars at work, putting in the purfling, with assorted scraps for cauls. (That Dremel router channel-cutter worked great, by the
way.) I use 'em a lot; aligning edges for edge-gluing tops, with folding wedges for sideways pressure...pushing stuff down flat I can't reach
otherwise.
(Might be old-hat technique to everybody, but it's an option.)
In the Purfling Dep't, it's good to have the grain running the same way when you glue up the strips, and to mark the direction for later
planing/scraping - minimizes unsightly tearout.
|
|
|
Jameel
Oud Junkie
Posts: 1672
Registered: 12-5-2002
Member Is Offline
Mood: No Mood
|
|
I love your go bar deck. Doc O uses one too. I never got around to making one. Now I've got to for the next soundboard. Please keep posting your great
pics. I'm loving them.....
|
|
|
carpenter
Oud Junkie
Posts: 248
Registered: 8-30-2005
Location: Eugene OR
Member Is Offline
Mood: brimming with hope
|
|
No home is really happy without one. I figure it'd be just the ticket for braces. Seems you can fine-tune the pressure with slightly different lengths
and cross-sections. I've got some 1/4" sq. ones for light work; mostly alder, for some reason. I've seen setups using 1/4" fiberglass rods with
plastic end caps to stop denting without cauls. That would solve a slight problem - that grain has to be straight! It's astonishing when they blow up
in your hand. And annoying.
Good luck; it's simple, and has a thousand uses. (Well, several...)
|
|
|
carpenter
Oud Junkie
Posts: 248
Registered: 8-30-2005
Location: Eugene OR
Member Is Offline
Mood: brimming with hope
|
|
That went well...
The tiniest bit of chipping around the purfling; I expect it was the straight router bit. A little trimming to do on the rose edges to match, and not
exactly an invisible join on the purfling... But I'm as happy as I'm going to get today.
|
|
|
| Pages:
1
2
3 |
![[*]](images/xmbprobrown/default_icon.gif){kind=icon}
