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Hosam
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The Abdo Nahat Project
Inspired by Jameel’s fine work, encouraged by Jonathan, Carpenter and the other projects made by the members of this forum, I decided to start my
first oud project. This project will be based on the1930 Abdo Nahat oud. I will be using Dr. Oud book as my primary source, but it will not be my only
source as I have deviated from the measurement used in the book.
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Hosam
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After six month of preparation, the time has come to generate some saw dust. I would like to thank Jameel for his help answering my questions during
my planning for this project. Thank you Jonathan for very informative thread, Dincer, Dr. Oud, Haluk and the rest of the fine oud makers here for
teaching the rest of us a lot about the instrument that we all came to love.
More information about this remarkable instrument is found here in this thread http://www.mikeouds.com/messageboard/viewthread.php?tid=1092#pid716...
If anyone has more detailed photos for this oud or measurements for any of the Abdo Nahat ouds made around the same time period, please post it here
or email me at hosam.alsaadi (at) gmail (dot) com.
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Hosam
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The Scale length for this oud will be 620 mm. Body length 520 mm, neck 206 mm and widest part of the face will be 370 mm. I started by drawing the oud
plan and marked the braces, shams and the bridge locations.
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Hosam
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This is the material I used to build the oud bending machine. I used ¾ inch thick plywood and a silicone rubber heater with a thermostat. The
silicone rubber heater measures 6 inches X 30 inches and will get to 400 F in less than two minutes.
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Hosam
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I got the silicone rubber heater from http://www.hiheat.com/ . I made a box from the plywood and routed the profile of the oud to the two inner sides of the bending machine. The depth
of the groove is a little over 1/3 inch and the width is 1/8 inch. I cut a thin sheet of metal and slide it into the groove. Placed the heater over
the metal sheet and covered it with another metal sheet.
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Hosam
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The back.
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Hosam
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Here is the completed oud bending machine.
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Hosam
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I am not sure if this will work. This oud will have 15 ribs or actually 5 super ribs. Each super rib will have 3 regular ribs that will be attached in
a very small area (4 to 6 mm) at the maximum depth of the oud bowl. I will have to bend only five large ribs. The 6 inch width of the bending machine
will allow me to do that. I am planning to route the top of each rib from one side and the bottom of the other side for about 1.2 mm depth and 10 mm
width. This will all allow the ribs to overlap and increase the gluing area about 4 times and hopefully will make the back stronger. The central rib
will be routed from the top in both sides to distribute the stress to the two side of the oud through the neighboring ribs.
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Hosam
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I am hoping that this method will also increase the coupling between the ribs making the back resonate more. It will also be more forgiving if the
ribs sides does not perfectly match and pass the light test. The drawback of this method is that I have to be really careful when bending the large
ribs. Breaking a large rib will be equivalent to breaking three ribs at once, very high waste of wood.
Here is a set of walnut guitar back and sides that I will be using.
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Hosam
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The bending of my first large rib went smooth. I bend it dry. It took less than 15 minutes to bend the rib. The second rib I used steam to warm up the
wood and make it little damp. The result was better.
When I tried to cut the large rib into 3 ribs the wood split and separated completely. The second large rib did the same. This wood is perfectly
quartered so no damage was really done. I will have to glue this small part the normal way. I will try to increase the attached area from 6 mm to 20
mm area in my next large rib. I will also cut the wood and try to route it before bending it.
Here are the ribs after bending.
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abusin
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Hi Hosam,
looking good so far, and I'm sure from what I can see now you will make an awesom oud based on the example you picked ( Insha Allah ), I wish you all
the best and you're lucky having all of this geniuses at hand and I'm sure they will be there to guide you all the way.
Good luck
best regards to all
Awad
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Jameel
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Great start to what is perhaps the "ulitimate" oud project. I'm looking forward to seeing your progress and of course the outcome. There are some
mind-boggling aspects to this oud, and it's difficult enough thinking about how they were made, let alone making them. Your lap-joint rib edges seem
intriguing, looking forward to that too. Good luck, Hosam. 
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Jonathan
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I can't wait to follow your project, Hosam. That bender is a great idea, and the wood looks superb.
Do you know how high you are getting the temperature of the wood for the bend?
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Jameel
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Hosam,
How much springback are you getting? Did you compensate for this by making your bender more extreme at the upper and lower bouts?
Elaborate on your lap joint idea, would you? Do you plan to fit the ribs to previous rib, then rout the rabbet? How will you do this?
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Hosam
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Thank you all for your kind encouragement!
Jonathan: I do not have a surface thermometer but the heater gets to 480 F. With the shut off thermostat and the sheet metal I think the temperature
will be between 400 F and 450 F. The silicone heaters have different wattage per square inch. The one I got is 5 watts /sq. in.
Jameel: Very few people are capable of making the “ultimate” oud project. I am not one of them. Luckily most of them are members of this forum. I
really wished if this was your project.
I did not compensate for the springback, the shape of the bender is exactly the same as the oud profile. For my first rib I had about ½ inch
spingback on the lower bouts. I did the rib again. For my second rib I left the rib on the bending form for few hours, I had none.
I am planning to cut the ribs and rout the rabbit on the flat rectangular wood sheet before bending it. After bending I will collapse the ribs
together and fit each rib to the next one.
I will take photos and post them here.
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riadh.3oud
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Hello HOSAM
you will be oud maker!
it's very interessent..
good luck Akhi, i wait to hear you oud..
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Peyman
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This is a neat invention. It takes out the guess work from free hand bending for beginners like me.
Good luck.
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Jonathan
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I made a similar wood bender (actually, a bit simpler), and the thing is remarkably easy to use. And, each rib comes out to the exact shape that you
want it to come out to. I should have thought of it sooner so I could have used it with my first oud.
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Hosam
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I managed to do some work in between the world soccer games 
I planned the rest of the ribs and sanded it down to 2.4 mm (100 then 220 grit). I cut the ribs and I rough routed the channels before bending.
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Hosam
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Here is my dial thickness caliper. I used a scrap of canary wood; the throat is a little less than 9’’. I have also made the neck and tail blocks.
I used Spanish cedar.
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Hosam
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This is what I use to steam the wood during the bending.
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Hosam
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I have not finished working on this yet. This is going to be my hybrid mould/spreader. The bulkheads will be adjustable and will hopefully can be
reused for my next oud project. I used ¾’’ poplar wood and ½’’ aluminum rod. The lower piece of wood in the photo is not part of mould. I
am just using it to locate the position of the bulkheads. The mould will also double as a final bending form where the ribs will get the final shape.
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Hosam
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Here is the super rib after bending. I just placed the rib over the unfinished form.
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Hosam
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A closer look at the ribs
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Hosam
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cross section
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