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Jonathan
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[*] posted on 8-13-2006 at 05:04 AM
Other finishes


I used the Tru Oil Sealer and the Tru Oil Finish on my last one, and loved them. Easy to apply, and really good results. But, I want to try something different on the one I am making now, and was looking at some of the finishes out there.
Has anybody used the Sam Maloof finishes? They're for furniture, but I can't see why they could not be used for ouds. There are a couple available, and from what I have read, the results are good, and it is easy to use. In particular, I am curious if anybody has used the one with polyurethane in it. Is there a reason not to use polyurethane on the oud?
Any input is appreciated.
Thanks!




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Haluk
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[*] posted on 8-13-2006 at 06:58 AM


Your oud which I made for you was finished by polyurethan varnish with hardener.
You should use pistole for best result.

Best wishes.




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Jonathan
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[*] posted on 8-13-2006 at 05:27 PM


Thanks, Haluk. Your ouds have a beautiful finish.



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billkilpatrick
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[*] posted on 8-14-2006 at 12:30 AM


i put an a clear acrylic finish on both my ouds of the sort used for waterproofing windows and doors but i can't recommend it. the first turned out ok and is lovely to the touch - satin(y) smooth - but i belive it lost some tone in the process. i don't know what i did wrong with the second oud but it never dried properly and was always slightly tacky. the luthier i brought it to to repair a warped neck removed the finish and replaced it with something (?) much better.

can't find true oil here in italy. i belive it was originally used for conditioning gun stocks but the local hunter's shop here in town has never heard of it. he has other products for the same purpose but not "true oil" by name ...

... what's in it? if you would be so kind as to list the ingredients (if available) maybe i could check them against the products he does have.

regards - bill
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Jonathan
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[*] posted on 8-15-2006 at 12:37 PM


Bill, I am not sure. On the package it says linseed and other natural oils, but there is no full list of ingredients, unfortunately.



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Dr. Oud
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[*] posted on 8-17-2006 at 08:57 AM


LMI sells a water based finish by KTM that is safe and easy to use, very durable, but not cheap. Nitrocellulose spray lacquer requires a positive respirator to avoid lung damage and some equipment to achieve a professional finish. Once you have the set-up it is very quick and cheap, but not so easy to repair. The oil-based varnishes (gun stock or whatever) are relatively affordable, easy to apply and repair and are very durable, but not as hard or scratch resistant as lacquer. Acrylics are not used for instruments for a variety of reasons - they tend to delaminate over time; remain flexable and so act like a rubber blanket and are less clear than other finishes.



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Hosam
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[*] posted on 8-17-2006 at 07:19 PM


What type of finish Nahat ouds and other older ouds were typically finished with?
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billkilpatrick
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[*] posted on 8-17-2006 at 11:12 PM


dear doc -

the acrylic "rubber blanket" you mention sounds exactly like what i've put over my oud. there's no end of subjectivity when it comes to my oud but i think it has deadend the sound somewhat.

i was going to use fine sandpaper or steel wool to bring it back to the wood. i have your book but any additional information you might like to add would be very much appreciated.

- bill
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oudmaker
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[*] posted on 8-18-2006 at 06:57 AM


Hi Jonathan
I used Minwax polyurethane clear varnish by brush on your oud.
Dincer




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Jonathan
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[*] posted on 8-18-2006 at 08:36 AM


Thanks, Dincer. That looks beautiful!



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Dr. Oud
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[*] posted on 8-18-2006 at 08:57 AM


Quote:
Originally posted by billkilpatrick
dear doc -

the acrylic "rubber blanket" you mention sounds exactly like what i've put over my oud. there's no end of subjectivity when it comes to my oud but i think it has deadend the sound somewhat.

i was going to use fine sandpaper or steel wool to bring it back to the wood. i have your book but any additional information you might like to add would be very much appreciated.

- bill

I would try some solvent with 0000 grade steel wool. Start with alcohol, and try more aggressive chemicals until the finish is softened enough to remove without cutting into the wood. The next would be mineral spirits or paint thinner, then lacquer thinner, then acetone, then MEK(use care with this one!) finally try paint remover starting with the weakest strength. Use any solvent sparingly and with adequate ventilation and a OSHA approved ventilating mask to protect your lungs. They have OSHA in Italy?

btw, every old oud I've seen has had a shellac finish, some were polished, some were brushed, you can test the finsih with acetone. French Polish or shellac will rub off with alcohol, so you can test it with a damp Q-tip like the others.




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[*] posted on 8-20-2006 at 04:37 AM


thank you richard - very helpful indeed.
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[*] posted on 8-20-2006 at 06:18 AM


Quote:
Originally posted by Hosam
What type of finish Nahat ouds and other older ouds were typically finished with?



Anyone know the answer to this questions?
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[*] posted on 10-17-2006 at 09:00 AM


dear doc -

took me a while to get around to it but i finally had a go at removing the aptly named "rubber blanket" from my egyptian oud.

didn't have to work too hard at it as the acrylic goop - or what ever it was i put on there - came off very easily with just steel wool (brought up lots of dust) and steel wool and alcohol to finish. heard the difference right away.

if this was tv or radio it would be ...

"another happy story from the case book of ... dr. oud!"

mille grazie - bill
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[*] posted on 10-17-2006 at 09:06 AM


striping finishes as never been soo easy with this little product.
Its totaly safe for the wood aswell.
works like a charm.
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[*] posted on 10-17-2006 at 09:18 AM


Quote:
Originally posted by Hosam
What type of finish Nahat ouds and other older ouds were typically finished with?
In my limited experience they have been French Polish, or shellac.



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tele
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[*] posted on 10-21-2006 at 09:11 PM


Are these posts refering to finish for the entire instrument? or just the back and neck? Would you use the same finish on the top or sound board???
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[*] posted on 10-21-2006 at 09:24 PM


You wouldnt finish a top or soundboard. Its not recomended as it dampers the vibrations of the wood to create the best possible sound.
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[*] posted on 10-22-2006 at 03:41 PM


I am planning to use a light coat of dewaxed shellac (Zinsser Bullseye). What would be my second best bet?
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[*] posted on 10-23-2006 at 08:36 AM


Quote:
Originally posted by Hosam
I am planning to use a light coat of dewaxed shellac (Zinsser Bullseye). What would be my second best bet?
Use Zinsser's French Polish and apply it in the traditional French Polish method, do not brush it on.



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