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SamirCanada
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new project. Oud from scratch
I have just finished revamping my workshop a little and I came up with a bending Iron which I finaly got around to making. Since I am done school now
and working full time I will have some time to mess around after work on my project ouds. Here is the pic.
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SamirCanada
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I know its ugly but it works and it works really nice!
now I have to make a mold.
any sugestions?
what material should I use?
what about the making the bulkheads flat?
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abusin
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Salam Samir,
I am sure it will turn out as a stunner, minak nit3alam khaiu wa rabna uwafikak 
all the best of luck buddy,
way to go my friend, as bro Mike voices it 
Regards,
Awad
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veyselmaster
Oud Junkie
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good lucky samir
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oudplayer
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hey samir
nice good work. i cant wait to see it, maybe make a women oud for you soon to be lol  
anyhow ttyl
thx sammy
we are lost camels in the desert and wanna find our way to water and the water is in aden
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jdowning
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Nice tidy workshop Samir!
You have seen the two types of mold that I use for lutes - solid and bulkhead type. If you intend to build an oud with semicircular (rather than
flattened profile) then Richard Hankey's "no mold" solution might be the best way to go - and with much less work. For lute molds, I flatten the mold
sections where the ribs contact the mold but others simple leave the profile rounded and compensate accordingly.
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SamirCanada
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I am thinking making a mold would be worth wile john since I could use it to better guide me while making the back. Plus its re-usable so why not make
one. I would feel more confident I think with one. I dont know if I would be able to be as accurate without the mold.
I think I will make one with drawn lines and squared bulkheads.
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jdowning
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The 'no mold' solution should give a bit more freedom but the important thing to remember is that - mold or no mold - the ribs should not be forced
into place with clamps, pins etc but should be carefully and precisely bent so that they fit together correctly. This way any built in stresses -
which might cause problems later, both structurally and possibly acoustically - can be reduced or eliminated. Take time to get the fit correct without
any forcing - no gaps in the rib joints - especially at the neck block end. Be prepared to scrap ribs that do not fit well, if necessary. Do not start
out trying to get a bowl completed in a day, like a professional might, but target, for a maximum of one well fitted rib a day. Speed comes with
experience but is not a virtue in itself unless you have to make a living as a luthier.
I use molds because I am trying to replicate the exact geometry of a particular original lute that I want to copy - otherwise I might go for the 'no
mold' approach and accept any slight variations in geometry that may result.
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Jameel
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Alright Samir! Looking forward to watching this one....
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SamirCanada
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Ok so I got the peg box almost done.
I found something out about my bending Iron.
I made a big mistake. I used a porcelain socket made to host a 100 watt light bulb but I put a 200 watt in there.
oopa!
I started smelling smoke. Georges29 ( forum member) was at my house at the moment.
I dont know the extent of the damage yet but thank god there was no fire or anything.
I have a feeling some of the wiring may have melted and I will make sure there is no danger before attempting to heat it again.
Thanks for the advice John. I may go with the no mold but instead use one peice of ply wood that use as a guide at the highest point of the bowl.
Jameel! nice to hear from you I was beginning to worry what may have happened to you.
Question Jameelo... will a 100 watt light bulb work?
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carpenter
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<< I may go with the no mold but instead use one peice of ply wood that use as a guide at the highest point of the bowl. >>
That approach worked fine for me.
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George29
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Now where would the fun be without a few 'gotchas' along the way. I'm sure with your drive and enthusiasm that you will build one very fine Oud.
I look forward to seeing this progress. Best of Luck!!
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Jameel
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Yikes Samir! Be careful. You might get away with a 100, just try one and see if it gets the iron hot enough. I'm paranoid about fire, so I always turn
off the bulb if I leave the shop.
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jdowning
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Sounds like you were using standard plastic coated wiring which cannot withstand the heat? The wiring would best have insulation designed for high
temperature operation - the kind of stuff found in electric toasters - with a woven fireproof fabric sleeve. You might be able to purchase porcelain
sockets already prewired with the correct wire?
I have never tried using a light bulb as a heat source but wonder if there is a risk of the bulb fracturing in service due to being confined within
the bending iron tube and overheating. What is your experience here Jameel?
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jdowning
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Also, be sure to use a 'grounded' electrical circuit for safety - that is it should be a three wire system (3 pin plug) with the ground wire directly
connected to the metal tube of your bending iron (as well as any other exposed metal parts enclosing the wiring). This will prevent you being
electrocuted should the wiring insulation fail and the bare wires contact the metalwork of the bending iron - the current flowing safely to ground
though the ground wire instead of through your body. With a standard circuit voltage of 115 volts, your circuit is passing about 1.7 amps with a 200
watt load which is sufficient to be dangerous to your health under certain conditions.
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Christian1095
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Good luck.. Hey, since you're in Canada, you should make your first Oud from Maple
Chris Walters
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DaveH
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Hey Samir
Sorry about the bending iron - minor setback. Do heed john's advice about the grounding though - wires and bare metal make me skittish, mainly because
I've managed to do exactly what John warns against, and with a good old British 240v whack. That woke me up. But as the man says, 115 is still
dangerous.
Hey, good luck with the whole project. Sounds like you've got somewhere already. You can't go wrong with the experts here peering over your shoulder,
and you can't turn back either, now you've gone public. Not without losing a lot of face, anyway
Anyway, kudos to you for biting the bullet and starting this project. Can't wait to see the results and I'm even toying with the idea myself (someday
:rolleyes .
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SamirCanada
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out of maple would be nice but people around here have the nasty habit of putting holes in it just to see if any syrup would pour out.
The neck will probably be made out of maple.
thanks for the encouragement. I havent gotten much done over the weekend but I should progress this week. and like say there is no turning back now...
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Mike
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Bending iron...schmending iron. 
Go with the old flame technique.
Looking forward to following this project buddy!
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jdowning
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Nice one Mike - but my favourite is this image - the simplest of tools but the signature of an ultimate craftsman. Any adequate heat source will do
for bending - electric heat gun, electric fire bar, open flame etc but best to stick with more controllable devices - at least until you have built a
hundred or so instruments.
Way to go Samir.
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Peyman
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Mike
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Great picture JD! That's one of the three masters who came out of the Gamil Georges shop on Mo Ali Street in Cairo.
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SamirCanada
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Question...
for the first rib. I was planning to make it to stick as close as possible to the prescribed outline but I wasnt going to be finicky about it being
absolutely identical to the template I have.
I was actualy going to use that first rib and make it the template to follow for the rest of the ribs.
is that a good Idea?
Also for the neck block. when I draw out the pencil lines for the ribs to fit. should I make each section flat for better surface bonding or should it
be left rounded?
Also since the bending Iron as been redisgned to allow heat to escape from the back which is something that it didnt do before it was compleetly
sealed. Also I have refited it with a 200 what socket.
Also for joining the rib edges... what is the overall best way? using an inverted jointer plane? ( the biggest i have is a jack plane will it work?
)
or using the sand paper on flat glass technique ? if so what grit should I use?
lots of Q's I know... but I need some enlightement.
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carpenter
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<< I was actualy going to use that first rib and make it the template to follow for the rest of the ribs. is that a good Idea? >>
If it's right to begin with. Accumulated Error will rise up and smite thee.
I have one half-rib cut pattern cut from thin wood; I draw a centerline on the blank, draw the half (with the flat edge of the pattern on the
centerline), flip the pattern over, and draw the other. Then I know at least it's symmetrical, even if it's extra work. (I have so many opportunities
to mess up that I'll take 'close-to-certain' wherever I can get it.)
I liked the sandpaper on glass just fine - I used 150 grit sticky-back, but I've used regular sandpaper and spray adhesive before. Roll it down flat
with something. A plane would give a better surface (maybe), but cut lots of extra ribs for practice pieces. The longer the sole, the better.
<< That's one of the three masters who came out of the Gamil Georges shop on Mo Ali Street in Cairo. >>
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kpr9pXEni3I&feature=related
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SamirCanada
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<< draw the half (with the flat edge of the pattern on the centerline), flip the pattern over, and draw the other>>
oooh. Great Idea!! I will do just that.
I will try with the plane and see if works. otherwise I have plenty of sandpaper.
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