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Author: Subject: Very precise tuning on wound strings: Is it possible?
cjmichael
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[*] posted on 2-9-2009 at 01:01 PM
Very precise tuning on wound strings: Is it possible?


When tuning the copper wound strings on my oud, it is just impossible for me to tune exactly on the note mark. It seems that my oud really doesn't let the strings sit anywhere they want to on the bone. It's almost as if I can only tune in certain increments, and the copper winding on the strings determine those increments.

Let's say that I'm tuning the low F string on my oud. The needle on my tuner is at 10 flat of a perfect F. I'll tighten the string until the needle is precisely on F, and then the tuning will jump 10 sharp on its own. It just won't let me tune exactly to F no matter how slow I go about it or how much graphite I use at the bone.

This is something I'm very curious about and I'm wondering if it is even possible given the perpendicular peg box of the oud. I have a floating bridge oud with what seems like a glued in bone (so I'm very reluctant to modify it at all). I only have this problem with wound strings (Pyramid oud). My instinct is to sand the grooves on the bone to be smoother, less of a corner. I want to avoid this if possible. I wonder how many other people have this problem, or if everybody has it.

Thanks!
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DaveH
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[*] posted on 2-9-2009 at 01:41 PM


Hi CJ. I do get this problem as well. I have an ebony nut and I think that makes it more susceptible as the windings make small ridges across the grooves.

The usual first recourse is to try to lubricate the groove by rubbing a soft graphite pencil along it. You can do this by just pulling the string to one side.

If this isn't sufficient, be careful about sanding the nut down. It may be that the rear edge is too sharp, but be careful about making the grooves any deeper or wider - deeper can mean the string gets stuck worse whereas wider can allow it to vibrate and set up sympathetic buzzing. The grooves should be very shallow - they should really only act as a guide to keep the string in the same place, not a channel for it to sit right inside.

With a bone nut, you should be able to get any wound string running smoothly and infinitely adjustable, no matter how thick. If you really can't sort it out yourself, a luthier may be able to do it, failing that, a new nut might be the only way of completely solving the problem.

Take a look at this guide to caring for lutes, which I downloaded a couple of weeks back. See section 8 on nuts.
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Jameel
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[*] posted on 2-9-2009 at 04:49 PM


Dave has some good advice there. I follow Lundberg's method with excellent results. Here's the secret. The groove does not go all the way over the nut. It's just a shallow groove located at the apex of the curve that locates the strings. It's very shallow and doesn't need to be the exact diameter of the string. If I find time I'll paraphrase Lundberg's method further at some point. The grooves are also polished with toothpaste and string. If done well, strings with windings should not jump when tuning, but slide smoothly.



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Melbourne
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[*] posted on 2-10-2009 at 02:17 AM


Its interesting this problem and b4 I read DaveH and Jameel's responses the first thing that came to mind is the shape of the nut. I had a guitar maker carve a bone nut for me once, and it's exactly what happens, the grooves are deep and flat, and as a result the wound part of a string clogs and stops moving, and you end up with these tuning problems. The nut on my shehata oud is almost exactly one quarter of a circle in sectional profile, and that allows the wound strings to take curved bend and travel smoothly to the pegbox...

I guess one advantage of the cheaper wooden nuts you get on cheap ouds, even on some good ones, is that the groves are shaped by the string, so you never end up with a stubborn corner where the wound strings get stuck.
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cjmichael
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[*] posted on 2-10-2009 at 08:46 AM


Thanks everybody, I'm glad to know this now. Perhaps in my case, though, it would be best not to bother it. Upon closer inspection it seems my nut is wooden, and it's very, very thin on one side. I'm not sure what kind of wood it is. Here is a blurry cell phone pic just for reference. I think it would be hasty to try anything myself. If there is no easy fix that doesn't involve removing any of the wood, I'll just put up with it and maybe one day get it professionally repaired.
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Reda Aouad
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[*] posted on 2-12-2009 at 06:32 AM


Thanks for the info. I have exactly the same problem. I tried to put some cream in the grooves of the nut and the tuning is now better.. though not perfect.

But I'm experiencing the same problem with the nylon strings as well.. not being able to tune the pair to the exact same pitch.. anyone has an explanation? My nut is made from wood..
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Reda Aouad
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[*] posted on 2-12-2009 at 06:36 AM


Just to make things a bit clearer.. my pegs are good and I have no problem turning them in very small increments and as smoothly as I want. But it is very annoying not to be able to tune strings to the exact same pitch.. the difference in the sound gets higher when moving to higher finger positions on the neck.. it is just frustrating!
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jaron
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[*] posted on 2-13-2009 at 09:22 AM


if you have a wound string that seems to want to settle just above or below the correct pitch, try twisting that string a little bit! loosen it fist of course, and twist it a little as you tighten- it might make contact with the nut at a different point of it's spiral than it did before- i have found that this often helps...
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rojaros
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[*] posted on 2-15-2009 at 04:20 AM


Hello, if the strings are in tune when open and going out of tune when fingered, that rather sounds like a problem with the strings themselves (that comes if they vary in thickness along their length) - here only changing strings ore sometimes turning the ends of one of the strings can help

Other than that if you can't tune them when open, they have been given very good advices in this thread.

best wishes
Robert

Quote:
Originally posted by Reda Aouad
Just to make things a bit clearer.. my pegs are good and I have no problem turning them in very small increments and as smoothly as I want. But it is very annoying not to be able to tune strings to the exact same pitch.. the difference in the sound gets higher when moving to higher finger positions on the neck.. it is just frustrating!
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rojaros
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[*] posted on 2-15-2009 at 04:22 AM


Hello, judging by the picture I could think that the original nut has been removed (maybe for making the open string length shorter) and some kind of improvised nut has been integrated into the fingerboard.

If you are not experienced in making new nuts don't try to improve that one - it could make the instrument unplayable.

So what remains is a combination of the two techniques mentioned in this thread: lubricating (preferably graphite) and twisting the wound strings tighter (which also can improve their sound because they become a bit stiffer)

best luck

Robert

Quote:
Originally posted by cjmichael
Thanks everybody, I'm glad to know this now. Perhaps in my case, though, it would be best not to bother it. Upon closer inspection it seems my nut is wooden, and it's very, very thin on one side. I'm not sure what kind of wood it is. Here is a blurry cell phone pic just for reference. I think it would be hasty to try anything myself. If there is no easy fix that doesn't involve removing any of the wood, I'll just put up with it and maybe one day get it professionally repaired.
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DaveH
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[*] posted on 2-15-2009 at 01:50 PM


Hi Reda. As Rojaros says, it's almost certainly the strings. There must be some irregularity - either an inconsistency in the diameter or perhaps a flaw which allows the string to stretch out unevenly. But before you replace them, just try turning around the one causing the problem. If two strings in a course go progressively out of tune with respect to each other as you move up the fingerboard, chances are only one of them is causing a problem. It's usually (though not always) the one which goes sharper. Turning the offending string around can often solve the problem.
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Reda Aouad
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[*] posted on 2-18-2009 at 08:27 AM


The problem is still not solve.. Im starting to doubt that its a nut problem. On of my wound strings has several small tears or snaps exactly at the nut.. and the others have wound separation where the nylon beneath is starting to appear (I dont know if I expressed correctly but I hope you understand). Is there any easy and fast way to sand the nut's grooves? And using what tool if any? And Im still not being able to tune my nylon strings to the exact same pitch even after twisting all of them.. and the strings brand is Crystal (German made) and are only less than a month old..
Any help? I will try La Bella strings but I want first to fix my nut..

Thanks :)
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cjmichael
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[*] posted on 2-20-2009 at 08:58 AM


jaron,

That's a really good tip about twisting the strings. I'm going to give it a try and see how well it works. I wish I thought of doing that. :)

rojaros,

Yeah, I'm not willing to shape it myself. I have no clue why the maker would glue it on, though.
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rojaros
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[*] posted on 2-20-2009 at 10:28 AM


Hi cjmichael,

as I wrote it looks (judging from the one picture) as if somebody had tried to make the playing length (open string length) shorter, which is actually not s bad idea to go about if your hand is small and you like the instrument and want to play it.
Probabely it's not so easy to undo that - you would have to remove that black part and glue in a part that extends the finger board to its original length and then insert a proper nut. Maybe not worth the trouble.

best wishes
Robert
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