Mike's Oud Forums

Building my first oud...

Jay - 5-23-2005 at 02:48 PM

I decided to go ahead and start my own thread now for my oud project; I posted this picture last night in Jameel's oud-making thread that shows my starting materials:



I hope you guys will continue to look here to see my progress!

Quote:
Originally posted by Dr. Oud
Way to go Jay! You've got a great start with your set up. the bench is going to be your best friend. I only have one suggestion, and that's to use a lighter wood for the bridge. Ouds bridges should be light weight, and the black ones you've seen were probably painted black, rather than ebony. Walnut or maple are good common medium hardwoods that are light enough for the bridge. It looks like you're stating a collection of scrapwood for pads and fixtures. I've got 3 or 4 boxes of scrap and I often use pieces that saner people would throw out. Welcome to the oud builder's asylum!


Thanks Dr. Oud. I do have a small sample piece of walnut somewhere that I think will work as a bridge blank.. Is the bridge weight an issue with the tone or the structure?

You guessed right about all the scraps laying around; I know my wife would love it if I threw them out and made my workspace neater (she's kind enough to endure me setting up shop right the middle of our house until I find a better space; the room my bench is in is right next to our bedroom!), but I keep thinking I might need those pieces later for making jigs and clamping cauls and stuff :).

More to come...

Jay

Mike - 5-23-2005 at 03:05 PM

Welcome the boards Jay. I am looking forward to following your project through to the end. Looks like you've already got a good haed start too. When you get going, we'll top this thread too so people can find it easily.

Take care,
Mike

Dr. Oud - 5-23-2005 at 04:07 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Jay... I do have a small sample piece of walnut somewhere that I think will work as a bridge blank.. Is the bridge weight an issue with the tone or the structure?

You guessed right about all the scraps laying around; I know my wife would love it if I threw them out and made my workspace neater (she's kind enough to endure me setting up shop right the middle of our house until I find a better space; the room my bench is in is right next to our bedroom!), but I keep thinking I might need those pieces later for making jigs and clamping cauls and stuff :).

More to come...

Jay

The bridge material is a weight issue. A heavy bridge dampens the vibration affecting sustain and low frequency response.
Sounds like you got a keeper with your missus, I'd put an exhaust fan in so you don't stink up the house with glue and solvents. I've built in the kitchen, a bedroom (with all my power tools! - the neighbors though I was nuts, so?). I even did some repair in the back of my truck at a music camp. It's all good.

Jay - 5-24-2005 at 11:43 AM

Your explanation about the damping effect makes sense... I have to say it's a little counter-intuitive to me though since I usually associate the the bass register with big heavy massive things..

I ran across the website of Phil Jones Bass amplifiers a while back which got me thinking more about this point... Whereas most manufacturers use big whomping speakers for their bass amplifiers, his philosophy is to use the smallest speakers possible because the larger speakers are sluggish and don't respond very efficiently. His amps are supposed to produce some of the highest quality bass sounds out there! So thinking of it this way, a lighter bridge does make sense for better bass response.

Thanks for the insight!

Jay

Jay - 5-24-2005 at 05:04 PM

Oh and Mike- Thanks for the warm welcome!

J

Amos - 5-25-2005 at 09:15 AM

Hi Jay,
I am excited to see what you are working on...I can't imagine having the skill to build an oud and I am so impressed by those who can take on such a project. If you need some more advice, you can try calling Mr. Peter Kyvelos, who is, in my opinion, one of the finest oud makers of our time. His shop, Unique Strings, is in Belmont, Massachussetts, and the number there is 617-489-1254. Peter and his apprentice Christos love to talk about the oud and are masters of their art. Good luck! Amos

Jay - 5-26-2005 at 04:53 PM

Thanks for your support, Amos... we'll see if I have the skills to complete this :) .. I'd love to talk with Mr. Kyvelos and his apprentice after I get going on the project.

Jay

Jay - 5-31-2005 at 08:43 PM

Tonight my brother-in-law came to visit and brought several gifts from my mother-in-law in Turkey. She sent a set of pegs, some mizrabs, and strings:



Çok tesekkürler, Annecim!

Getting Started...

Jay - 7-20-2005 at 05:36 PM

Hi all,

When I started this thread I planned on beginning construction after a few weeks, but it looks like two whole months have passed now! I guess I'm slow at getting things started:)

I've made the profile pattern based on Dr. Oud's drawings:




And began shaping the neck and tail blocks:







I made a mistake on the neck block at first- I ended up rounding the edges over too much with the block plane. Also, maybe I was too eager and didn't pay close enough attention to the drawings; the axis around which the profile pattern is rotated leaves the neck block about 5 mm from the edge that mates with the oud face. This allows for the addition of extra material on the side ribs.

I had enough scrap from the block I cut the original peice out of (that's it underneath the neck block in the first picture above) to start fresh, and below is the result of the second attempt:




The tail block:



And here's the whole assembly fixture, waiting for the glue to dry between the spacer blocks and the spreader bar. I'm doing this "Dr. Oud style" without a mold; the ribs will held between the neck and tail blocks by fitting each one to the previous one.



cshrem - 7-20-2005 at 08:33 PM

First, Welcome to mikes oud forums, I'm looking foward to watching your oud being built. Good Luck,

Charlie

Orahim1 - 7-21-2005 at 04:04 PM

Can't wait to see it finished! I wish I was good with woodworking. There are soooo many things I'd like to create. Did you learn on your own or have you taken woodshop classes?

Jay - 7-21-2005 at 05:38 PM

Thanks guys for your encouragement!

Orahim1, I'm just a beginner at woodworking- so I too wish I was good at it :). I haven't taken any classes yet, but I like to read alot about woodworking and I'm learning alot that way. I'm lucky that there are people out there like Jameel, Dr. Oud, and others who are willing to share their work and knowledge... :bowdown:

And here's a shoutout to Mike for giving us the opportunity to share our common interests in a positive way... :airguitar:

J

Jameel - 7-28-2005 at 03:29 AM

Looking good, Jay. Keep it up!

Getting it together...

Jay - 7-29-2005 at 09:12 PM

OK!

I resawed the African mahogany for the ribs this week. After looking at the grain I ended up slicing the boards up with a tablesaw so that the grain is oriented as flat as possible. It was my first time using a tablesaw, so it took more than a few cuts to get the hang of it. The main mistake I made was trying too hard to keep the boards pushed against the fence. The pressure ended up pushing the board into the side of the blade, causing it to rub against and burn the wood. In addition, sometimes I stopped the motion of the board mid-cut which also caused burn marks. But so far it looks like the burn marks come off after a few passes of the plane, and I cut them extra thick so there's plenty of material to remove. Also, I've probably got enough ribs for three ouds here so I can just throw out the really bad ones.





Oh yeah, since I ended up cutting the boards this way the rib blanks aren't as wide as the specs in Dr. Oud's book. I know there was some discussion in Jameel's thread about calculating rib dimensions.. Being kind of a math geek I went over alot of the geometry this week and determined that, with the width of these blanks and the shape of my profile I'll need 17 to 19 ribs as a rough estimate. If I have time I want to write up my calculations and post it here.. One thing I found is that, once you go above 13 ribs or so, estimating the bowl as an arc instead of a circumscribed polygon results in negligible errors. More on this later I hope...


Knowing that I'll need a flat reference surface and a flat sanding block for shaping to dimension, I put together these MDF blocks topped with glass for ultimate flatness:




I wanted to use some heavy-duty float glass for this, but this single-strength window glass was all I could find. But backed with the 3/4" MDF, I think they will hold up just fine. Later I'll add a bracket to attach the two plates at right angles, something like this:




I'll attach sandpaper to the narrow plate and use this mode for sanding the face joint, etc.


The next thing I need is a bending iron. Following Jameel's lead, I wired up this dimmer switch to a high-watt light bulb:




And I'll make a frame to mount it inside this pipe:



The heat from the light buld should be more than enough to heat the pipe so I can use it as a bending iron to shape the ribs.


...and the final picture I have for this post is an addition to my raw materials list. I recieved some horns today which I bought off eBay. I plan to split these, flatten them, sand and polish them, and then use them as material for the rosettes. I still haven't found much information on how to work with horn, so any input from you guys would be much appreciated. Only one is shown in the picture, but I bought ten total so I can experiment. Then I'll take whatever is left and probably sell it again on eBay to get some of my money back :)





Happy ouding everyone! I hope to post more soon!

Mike - 7-31-2005 at 05:05 PM

Way to go Jay! Looks like you are off to a fabulous start. I think once you get going (as you already have), things will just start rolling nicely for you.
Keep us updated.

Mike

Dr. Oud - 8-8-2005 at 10:00 AM

Looking good, Jay, some comments:
Using steel pipe for your bending iron may be a problem for the light bulb heat source. Jameel used Aluminum tubing which is a much better heat distributing material, and not so thick so the low heat light bulb can get the surface up to a bending temperature. You could try the pipe, but if it doesn't get enough to boil water off the surface, try fabricating one with aluminum. I have an old guitar bending form made from thin sheet metal, so the light bulb works ok, but I need a 200 watt bulb to get it hot enough.

Horn softens with heat, so you could put the horn in hot water to warm it up, then clamp it flat until it cools, then sand it down.

Andy - 8-8-2005 at 12:13 PM

Jay, I seem to recall something on a home made bending device a few years ago on MIMF forum http://www.mimf.com/ check the archives for oud. You will find articles about the oud with info by some members of this site. Good luck. I mounted a light fixture similar to yours to a piece of wood and then like the Dr. Oud I used a 200 watts light bulb for a heat source. I then used 2 right angle bracketts attaching both to a clean can (a large soup can is just the right thickness) using 1/4" self taping screws, the same type used to keep duct work from coming apart. After centering the can around the light bulb I then screwed the right angle L brackett to the block of wood. Volia, a very useful bending device for just a few bucks. It works for me. If for some reason it doesn't fire up all I have to do is replace the light bulb.

Peyman - 8-9-2005 at 07:38 AM

Hi, this is my first post here. Well, actually I have been reading mike's forums for about a year (following the oud project, etc). I just want to mention that the other option to a light bulb is actually using a heat gun in a pipe (a sink pipe). It was mentioned in the luthier's red book, vl 1. Heatgun is stuck in the pipe and both are placed in a vise at an angle. You can use 2 to get the temprature up fast.
You can also boil the ribs than clamped them to shape in a bending form. I am not sure if boiling is a good thing since the rib has to dry for a while. Maybe someone with more experience (like dr. Oud) can elaborate on that.

Jay - 8-9-2005 at 09:04 AM

Thanks for the advice everyone.. I was out of town last week and I haven't started bending yet, but I'll have to see how it goes with the steel pipe. The soup can is a great idea, Andy (not to mention easy on the wallet :) ).

Dr. Oud- I'm going to try boiling the horn and clamping it like you said, maybe putting it in the oven for a while if it doesn't flatten with clamping pressure alone. If anyone is interested, I found Marc Carlson's webpage to be helpful:

http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/horn/hornhome.html

Peyman- Welcome to the forums! I also followed them for a long time before deciding to post. Glad to get your input.

For a while I was considering steam bending the ribs... there was a good tip in the last issue of Fine Woodworking where a guy used polyethylene package tubing film to avoid the need for a steambox. I've got access to steam utilities so I thought this would be an easy way to bend the ribs quickly. In the end, aside from the issue of drying the ribs, I figured that I'd end up needing a bending iron anyway since I'll have to tweak the ribs to fit them together on the assembly fixture. So I figured I might as well use the iron for the whole process.

Just curious though, especially with all the real luthiers that frequent this forum, has anyone used steam bending in oud making? I've never seen it done, and I figure there's got to be a good reason.

Next time I'll have some pics to post too!

Jay

Dr. Oud - 8-9-2005 at 09:06 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by Peyman...You can also boil the ribs than clamped them to shape in a bending form. ...

Boiling will certainly soften the wood, and clamping it to a form will make it bend, but the form would have to be made with a sharper curve than the final profile as the wood will spring back when the clamps are removed. Also the curve may vary from piece to piece due to variations in the wood grain. In addition, softer woods like mahogany and some nut woods may shred at the edges if they are too wet. The bending iron serves to fine tune the curve of each rib to accurately fit the ribs together with no or a minimum of residual stress. Only a small amount of water from a spray bottle is necessary to soften the harder woods, and some woods can be bent dry (maple for instance).

A heat gun or propane torch will provide a heat source for sure, but the expense and safety risk are higher than a simple light bulb. The light bulb also spreads the heat more evenly on the surface of the bending iron, aiding the bending process.

oudmaker - 8-10-2005 at 10:02 AM

Gentlemen
Don't use any water at all !!!!
Just heat.

Jameel - 8-10-2005 at 12:50 PM

Jay,

I found on this last back that Dincer's advice is correct. I didn't soak my walnut ribs at all (mahogany bends about the same), but simply spritzed them with a spray bottle before bending, which I stopped doing after the first couple ribs. You'll find that even if you soak them, after you get them on the iron, the water gets heated away pretty quick, and you're left bending a dry rib. I bent most of the ribs for this latest back dry.

bcearthtones - 8-26-2005 at 05:12 AM

Hi Jay,
I hope your oud is going well. Just remember, the first one is a learning experience, the second ond can be perfect ;)
Here is my bending iron, I use a little water (I'm a beginner too, when I bent dry, I snapped ribs, too much water and you spend a long time at the iron)
It heats up quick, but not even, this does not pose much of a problem with the narrow staves of the oud. You need ventalation with gas too. If you go this route, try to fing a 3" diameter pipe with 1/4 walls, or if the pipe is smaller, an oval shape gives more surface area.
Best of Luck
Scott

bcearthtones - 8-26-2005 at 05:14 AM

I usually clamp it to the edge of the workbench, but a vice works too. (it is not balenced to stand on it's own)

Scott

bcearthtones - 8-26-2005 at 05:17 AM

I meant to mention, have you seen Astrid's web site? She uses a clothes inron to bend! Whatever works.
S

Peyman - 8-26-2005 at 06:55 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by bcearthtones
I meant to mention, have you seen Astrid's web site? She uses a clothes inron to bend! Whatever works.
S


Interesting, Could you post a link?

Jameel - 8-26-2005 at 07:19 AM

http://www.oudinfo.de/

Bending a rib

Jay - 8-28-2005 at 07:59 PM

Thanks for the advice, Scott. Looking forward to seeing the progress on your wife's lute and also the lavta.

I finally tried out my bending apparatus today. As the doc pointed out, steel doesn't have good heat transfer characteristics; It takes a while to heat up with the bulb, but eventually it does get hot enough to boil off water. You can tell it's sluggish, and when the wood takes away its heat it needs a moment to respond. Tomorrow I think I'll look around the shop at school and see if there's any copper pipe scraps that I might be able to substitute.

I did end up using the water spritzer before bending.. maybe after I get a few ribs bent without cracking them I'll move on to dry bending as you kindly suggested, Dincer Bey.

At any rate, I was able to get the first rib bent pretty well to form, and I used the MDF/glass surface to joint it.



This rib is just for practice, since I cracked some of the grain while bending. After bending, I also realized that my neck and tail blocks could use a little more shaping to match the form, so I'll need to adjust those before proceeding further.

Well that's all I have for today.. Jameel great job updating your site; the restoration looks incredible!

Jay

Dr. Oud - 8-29-2005 at 08:18 AM

I suggest looking for aluminum pipe and a large diameter which will transfer heat faster, and to a larger area of the rib surface. This will reduce the tendency to brack ribs. Its a matter of experience to judge how much pressure to apply and when to back off. Make plenty of extra ribs as they will break now and then. (I still do).

syrianoud - 8-30-2005 at 03:25 AM

MR. JAY

I am very impressed by people like you who takes there time to build a OUD , I would follow up all the way till the end .I am ordering DR. OUDs book today just for my general knowledge .I like the Guy he is very helpful and has a lots of knwoledge in many areas. But hey Jay leep it up hope to see a very nice sounding Oud soon. Best Regards , Samir,California:applause::buttrock::xtreme::))

Jay - 8-30-2005 at 09:00 AM

Hey Samir,

Thanks for your nice comments. I think you'll find that Dr. Oud's book is very interesting, even if you don't plan on building. There's a ton of knowledge in there, including tips on maintaining and caring for your oud too.

I'm glad you all are following my project.. I'll definitely post sound clips as soon as it's done, but at the rate I'm going it may be a while :) (and oh yeah did I mention that I don't know how to play the oud- I'll need help from you guys when this is done ;) )

cheers,

Jay

AusOudlover - 10-31-2005 at 07:18 PM

Hi Jay, like you I'm working on my first oud following Richard's book, but I thought I might suggest 3" copper pipe which you can scrounge from a good plumber. cut one end into strips 1" wide fold these across to close the end (but not airtight. Heat can be safely provided by a heat gun which are available here in Australia for $20.00. This gives no ectrical risk or burn risk as would a gas torch. This has worked well for me on two guitars. Ken

Greg - 10-31-2005 at 08:40 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by AusOudlover
Hi Jay, like you I'm working on my first oud following Richard's book, but I thought I might suggest 3" copper pipe which you can scrounge from a good plumber. cut one end into strips 1" wide fold these across to close the end (but not airtight. Heat can be safely provided by a heat gun which are available here in Australia for $20.00. This gives no ectrical risk or burn risk as would a gas torch. This has worked well for me on two guitars. Ken


Welcome to the forums Ken. I have sent you a U2U.

Regards,

Greg

Dr. Oud - 11-1-2005 at 03:19 PM

Quote:
... Heat can be safely provided by a heat gun which are available here in Australia for $20.00. This gives no ectrical risk or burn risk as would a gas torch. ... Ken

So what powers your heat gun? Solar? Nucleur? It seems that any heat has a burn risk of some sort associated with it. If it can scorch wood it can surely scorch skin, no?

AusOudlover - 11-1-2005 at 06:17 PM

I'm sorry not to have explained myself fully. The heat gun is an electrically powered device used generally for things such as paint stripping. If it is positioned in a way that places the nozzle in the copper tube the only hot surface is the tube. it is of course posible to burn oneself if the tube is touched. This heating is managed without any flame which is a far greater risk I believe. I know that many members of the Australian Association of Musical Instrument Makers Association have turned to this style of bender if they can't afford a professional device. Another thing I have found useful for small items such as purfling is a household steam generator of the type sold for cleaning bathrooms etc. this provides heat and moisture in one hit.:)

palestine48 - 11-1-2005 at 06:35 PM

Does it blow hot air like a hair blowdryer or just heats up?

AusOudlover - 11-1-2005 at 08:21 PM

It blows hot air but much hotter than a hairdryer. I made the mistake with my first one of completely closing the end of the tube, the air had nowhere to go and came back onto the hater and melted the plastic parts.:(

Dr. Oud - 11-1-2005 at 10:11 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by AusOudlover
.... Another thing I have found useful for small items such as purfling is a household steam generator of the type sold for cleaning bathrooms etc. this provides heat and moisture in one hit.:)

I use a small cappuccino machine and bent the steam pipe out, put a small heater hose on it and use it for steaming glue joints apart myself. So you use it to soften purfling for bending? hmmm, I'll have to try that. I'm always breaking rosewood edsge bands, they get so brittle when dried out by dry heat. The cappuccino machine is also handy for quickly heating up a cup of water for my hide glue/fondue pot or tea. I was pulling your leg about the heat gun - I use one myself all the time to remove synthetic glues, even epoxys, carefully, of course.

Jay - 11-6-2005 at 03:07 PM

Thanks for all the advice guys... I've been side-tracked for a while but hopefully I'll have some more pics real soon. The "Oud Projects Forum" is really taking off! I'm learning alot from all of your posts. Glad to watch the Doc's restoration here, and Jameel's final product is outstanding!

It turns out my bending iron works just fine with a little practice, so I'm sticking with it for now... maybe I'll soup it up on my next build. I am now able to bend the ribs dry and without cracking them.

After several attempts at glueing up the first ribs I've yet to be successful... I think I twisted the first rib a little on glue-up so it was hard to fit the second without gaps in the joint. So now I'm starting all over with the first rib and we'll see if I can be more careful this time :).

Cheers,

Jay

syrianoud - 11-6-2005 at 06:37 PM

Good Job jay keep going :cool::cool:;);)

Mazin - 1-6-2007 at 11:45 AM

WE ARE WAITING MAN!

good luck

Maz

wissam - 1-6-2007 at 09:08 PM

Great Job so far....

Keep going ... we can't wait for the finished product.