Mike's Oud Forums

My first oud

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faggiuols - 5-23-2016 at 01:19 AM

to understand why I decided to do it again ...
I hope to do the decor better than before ...

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faggiuols - 5-23-2016 at 07:30 AM

Bent the rosewood edges ....!
Now, as you see, they are tied with a strong elastic why take the correct form. In the coming days I hope to have time to glue them.
of course I will update when ready.

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faggiuols - 5-27-2016 at 12:16 AM

good morning
I can not see the pictures that the forum members are attaching !!
I see:
[File] 37418 [/ File]
how can I see them?
I only see what I posted myself with traditional method ..
can someone help me?
and thanks to all

jdowning - 5-29-2016 at 05:21 AM

Unfortunately all of those past image attachments are now lost and cannot be recovered. See Mike's message under the 'News and Updates' on the forum Home page and his earlier message on this thread.

Current images being posted are not affected. Some of the images on earlier topics have not been lost so far so if an earlier topic is of interest it may be best to print a hard copy for your file and reference. The future of posting images by the 'traditional method' is now open to question. Mike is currently looking into the possible alternatives.

faggiuols - 6-1-2016 at 01:46 AM

thanks Jdowning

The pegbox is practically finished, but not glued. I still have to make holes for the pegs.
the interlocking-neck pegbox has yet to be finalized, but the general result satisfies me enough. everything needs to be cleaned well.
here are some pictures ..

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jdowning - 6-2-2016 at 05:19 AM

Nicely done and good progress!

When drilling the peg holes be careful to avoid splintering of the side walls of the pegbox as the drill bit enters and exits the wood. The best drill bits for the task are not the standard machinist drill bits but those with a brad point tip and side spurs - the brad point guides the bit so that it does not wander and the spurs cut the wood fibres on entry so ensuring a clean hole without splintering. See attached description from the Lee Valley catalogue - the cheaper utility style is less suitable in my experience.

To prevent wood splintering as the bit exits, stop drilling as the brad point just starts to show so leaving a small hole, withdraw the bit and then re-drill from the outside centering the tip of the brad point into the small exit hole. Alternatively provide a piece of scrap wood clamped in place to provide support for the bit as it exits. It is best also to provide a piece of scrap wood inside the pegbox to minimise risk of splintering as the bit breaks through the first side of the pegbox. The diameter of the bit should be just sufficient to allow the small end of your peg reamer to enter - the reamer then opens up the peg hole to the desired diameter. Should there be any slight splintering around the edges of a drilled hole these will be removed during the reaming operation as the hole is enlarged in diameter.

It is more convenient to drill the holes on a drill press (using a tapered support so that the finished holes are symmetrical with the peg box centre line) but drilling can also be done 'freehand, by eye' with care.

If a machinist style drill bit is all that is available, start by using a small diameter bit to make a 'pilot' or guide hole and then gradually increase the hole diameter using increasing diameter bits - drilling alternately from both sides of the pegbox. The reaming operation will correct any slight axis misalignment of the holes.

Take it slowly! Good luck.

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faggiuols - 6-6-2016 at 07:50 AM

Thanks Jdowning
I had the suspect that the drilling operation of the pegbox was not a simple thing!
Thanks for your valuable advice.
I will do exactly as you indicated to me.
Thanks for your valuable help, without your advices my oud was definitely much worse.
When I'll do this drilling work, I will update the topic!

SamirCanada - 6-6-2016 at 08:15 AM

next time... better to drill the holes before assembling the pegbox. You can then drill the holes through both sides at the same time.

faggiuols - 6-6-2016 at 08:56 AM

Quote: Originally posted by SamirCanada  
next time... better to drill the holes before assembling the pegbox. You can then drill the holes through both sides at the same time.


Dear Samir
thanks for your post.
I agree with you..
But I though that I am not a luthier, I knew that I would change the shape of the pegbox after mounting it. So I thought that making the holes before mounting the pegbox would force me not to change slightly after the curves of the pegbox , to avoid decentralizing the holes.

That is why I preferred to do it later, knowing it would be more difficult and more dangerous.
Now I hope to do it right the job.
thanks a lot, friend

faggiuols - 9-7-2016 at 07:20 AM

Hello to all.
an update on the work, although, as always proceed slowly.
I put some pictures of the new holes decorations, and braces in preparation.
See you soon.

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faggiuols - 9-23-2016 at 08:07 AM

Goodmorning everyone
I'm pasting the braces, and I'm in big trouble.
I followed the instructions of the book by Hankey and braces are 3 mm at the center, and 4 mm to the sides.
their height is approximately 20 mm.
When i glue them (see technique in foto) the braces twist and do not remain permanently perpendicular to the soundboard.
I had to put a edge, but this makes glueing the more complicated.
When you have to glue the curved braces (6 - 7 - 8) everything becomes more complicated.
If anyone has suggestions I will be very grateful.
thank you all

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jdowning - 10-3-2016 at 08:00 AM

Your 'go bars' applying pressure to the brace should bend in the same axis as the brace - not sideways as seen in the image as this will cause the brace to topple over. Also use of hot hide glue for making the joint is beneficial as it will quickly gel and 'grab' so preventing the brace sliding out of position as clamping pressure is applied. With hot hide glue a heavy clamping force (from using too thick and powerful 'go bars') is not required (given precisely made joint surfaces) the glue pulling the joint surfaces together as it dries and cures.

faggiuols - 10-3-2016 at 09:10 AM

Thanks Jdowning
for comments, as always.
indeed the "go bars" are lateral, than the axis of the braces.
That's because I want that the braces rest on wooden board, that I placed as contrast. This piece of wood has allowed me to maintain the vertical braces during bonding (made with animal glue).
verily section of the braces (height - 25/26 mm -- width 3 / 4mm) is too "lean," having a support of only 3 mm, can not stay upright by itself, even putting "go bars" axis aligned with the braces's axis.
Using the piece of wood as a contrast I managed to keep upright quite the braces, but this prevented me from thoroughly clean the residual glue. Also one of the pieces of wood are glued is slightly with residual glue, and has created me big problems for its removal.
I was wondering what precautions you need to use for keeping the vertical braces without the wood contrasting ..
I must say that my post is a few days ago and now I'm almost finished gluing the braces. I attach you a photo. In fact, in the end, I'm pretty happy with how I managed to solve the problems encountered. Yesterday I started modeling braces even though I have not glued the braces near the main hole.
thank you so much

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jdowning - 10-3-2016 at 04:37 PM

That seems to be a good efficient solution to the problem of narrow braces toppling over. You could of course cut a small bevel on the bottom corner of the support block so providing clearance to prevent the block sticking to any glue 'squeeze out' and/or wrap the support block in plastic 'Klingwrap'.
Looking good.

jdowning - 10-4-2016 at 05:57 AM

Of course, also if the base of a brace is not cut at a perfect 90° angle to the side, the brace will tilt over under pressure from the clamps.

When planing the base of a brace use a 'shooting board' with the plane on its side to ensure accuracy. See here on post dated 2-8-2009

http://www.mikeouds.com/messageboard/viewthread.php?tid=8565

faggiuols - 10-4-2016 at 08:20 AM

Quote: Originally posted by jdowning  
That seems to be a good efficient solution to the problem of narrow braces toppling over. You could of course cut a small bevel on the bottom corner of the support block so providing clearance to prevent the block sticking to any glue 'squeeze out' and/or wrap the support block in plastic 'Klingwrap'.
Looking good.


In fact, after the first few errors, I used a piece wood with rounded edges! for this I managed to solve the problem.
sometimes I do the right thing !!


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faggiuols - 10-4-2016 at 08:34 AM

Quote: Originally posted by jdowning  
Of course, also if the base of a brace is not cut at a perfect 90° angle to the side, the brace will tilt over under pressure from the clamps.

When planing the base of a brace use a 'shooting board' with the plane on its side to ensure accuracy. See here on post dated 2-8-2009

[url]http://www.mikeouds.com/messageboard/viewthread.php?tid=8565
[/url]

I had not thought about the perfection of the contact surface to be bonded and its perfectly perpendicular.
I used technique similar to the one that you suggest in your post, however, instead of the plane I used a wooden block perpendicular and I polished the surface bonding holding the braces resting on the perpendicular block.
it could be that there were flaws in this work. but they are now no longer able to control. I though I still incollre the braces on the hole (see photo). I'll check when I will prepare better these last two braces.

I hope I explained in english!

jdowning - 10-6-2016 at 06:28 AM

A sanding block that is straight and square can certainly be used on a shooting board in place of a long plane where only small amounts of material need to be removed.
Some will make use of a metal carpenter's/builder's level for this purpose. These levels are long, straight and accurately machined on all sides (or should be!). Just glue a strip of abrasive paper along one edge. Use a soluble glue that may be removed when the abrasive strip is worn and needs replacement.

faggiuols - 10-7-2016 at 05:45 AM

Thanks Jdowning

could you kindly attach a photo of the "metal carpenter's / builder's level", because I was not able to understand well the type of object.
I understand that it should be an object of daily use for a carpenter .. (?), but I do not understand what object is. I think I lost something in the translation!

thanks so much as always

jdowning - 10-8-2016 at 07:54 AM

These levels are used by builders to ensure construction is level and vertical. They are also called 'spirit levels' or 'bubble levels' or 'box levels' or 'I-beam levels'. They come in various shapes and sizes made from wood, plastic or metal. The ones most suited for use on a shooting board are the metal straight sided 'I-beam' type with an aluminium frame of 'I' section about 60 cm or so in length. The level is placed on its side and the abrasive paper is glued to the base surface of the level.

I do not have images and am no longer set up to post images anyway - but just do a Google search for 'I-beam level' images and I am sure that you will recognise the tool that I am referring to. The basic levels are not expensive new but can often be picked up cheaper at yard sales. They are also useful for any home repair projects!

faggiuols - 10-9-2016 at 10:59 PM

Of course!
I know very well the level of which you speak.
I have one in my lab quite nice.
I was not sure I understand exactly the tool that you mentioned in your post.
I'll definitely try to ursare it as you say!
thank you so much.
As soon as I further upgrade I will make a new post

faggiuols - 10-30-2016 at 05:21 AM

Hello to all
I'm back with my realization's problems of my first oud!
the problems are:

1 - I made the braces n. 6 - 7 - 8 curved, as written in the book of Hankey. This has, obviously, done arched soundboard after that I glued the braces.
Now the soundboard no longer coincides with the edge of the bowl (see foto).
Must I force gluing the soundboard to bowl in the rear block?

2 - I cut the braces before mounting the soundboard on the bowl. then I tried to cash the soundboard in the bowl in his position but I unfortunately found that there is a small misalignment of the soundboard axis compared to the bowl axis! it's normal?? if you cut the end of the braces to remove the problem, then i think that some braces will not touch most the bowl and the connection will be bad!!
what do you think?
I am attaching two pictures that clarify the problems better than my bad english .
the last picture is for an update on the work.
thanks to those who want to give me some advice!

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faggiuols - 11-16-2016 at 10:01 AM

Hello everyone
I would like to know your own opinion!
I'm doing rosette and thinking to smooth the sharp edges of the cuts made by the jigsaw, both to improve the aesthetics of the work that has defects, to soften the effect of the rosette.
I saw that all the rosettes of oud I've seen are with the edges at 90 °, that is as they come out from the cut.
what do you think?
thank you all

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jdowning - 11-21-2016 at 07:42 AM

The way I build lutes is to cut the sound board oversize and first align sound board centre line to bowl/neck centre line then marking the bowl outline in pencil on the underside of the sound board for reference. The brace positions are then marked and the braces glued in place. The braces are cut oversize in length and are trimmed after gluing to the sound board. The ends of each brace are then reduced in depth by paring with a chisel until the depth at the outside is about 5 mm. The ends of the braces are then trimmed to the bowl profile (allowing for rib thickness of the edge of the bowl) using a fine razor saw/sharp chisel - test fitting the sound board to bowl as brace trimming progresses until a close fit of the brace ends to sides of the bowl is achieved with everything in position and in alignment.
I judge the correct fit of each brace and by 'feel' - slight rubbing noise heard at each brace end as the sound board is placed in position. If an error is made in trimming the end of a brace then veneer can be glued to the end of the brace to fill any gap or a small veneer patch can be glued to the bowl at the location of the end of the brace.

The bridge position and alignment can then be established using a template as seen here:

http://www.mikeouds.com/messageboard/viewthread.php?tid=8488&pa...

As your bridge is already glued in position it may now be best to check and correct any misalignment with sound board in place (if significant) using a similar template. It is of course important to be sure that when the sound board is glued in place that the strings, when fitted, will all be correctly aligned over the fingerboard.

When gluing the sound board, the first part to be clamped is the area over the neck block. This will flatten any residual sound board curvature at that location.

That is a very intricate and ambitious rosette design to cut as a first attempt - congratulations with your work so far! To avoid breakage of the fine elements of the design, it is always best to cut from the centre of the rosette outwards - although if you are using a power jigsaw (rather than with a hand saw) this is perhaps not quite so critical as the workpiece is well supported during sawing. In my opinion - given the complexity of the design - I would just leave everything with crisp sharp 90°edges as it comes off the saw (and so ensure that nothing gets broken). If some clean up of the cut edges is necessary this can be done (carefully!) with a 'needle file' or sharp scalpel. If any bits break off accidentally during sawing be sure to save them and glue them back in place as work proceeds. Some imperfections may be forgiven and likely will never be noticed once the work is complete.




faggiuols - 11-21-2016 at 09:37 AM

Dear Jdowning
thanks a lot, as always, for your valuable explanations.
about the soudnboard and braces slightly wrong, I wonder if it is better to smooth the end of braces and bring the axis of the soundboard in the correct position, or, since the error is very low, leave everything as it is now?
the way to correct the braces I find it difficult, because I do not really know what brace is wrong, and therefore it seems to me that, perhaps, further got worse the error.
I followed the book of Hankey and I made as explained in the book.

thanks for the link about setup of the bridge! I studied well this topic, but I had missed the point where you explain how to paste the bridge.

about the rosette it was finished a few days ago. I am attaching the picture after removing the paper pattern.
To stiffen the wood I glued behind it a maple sheet to be 0.5 mm. and I'm glad I did. This allowed me to cut with confidence the project, but now I am anxious for the Maple removal that I will very carefully with sandpaper.
the rosette have the cuts "dirty", and I would like to improve them with my scalpel, or with small strips of sandpaper 180 to pass in the cuts.
as you can see from the picture, it must be corrected much!
I hope that, ultimately, it will be nice!


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jdowning - 11-21-2016 at 03:07 PM

If the axial misalignment is very small (and as long as the strings will all lie in alignment over the fingerboard) then I would leave things as they are now. The ends of the braces should all be a close fit against the side ribs of the bowl. To check this temporarily firmly clamp the sound board at the neck block position so that it cannot shift out of alignment and then go around the sound board edge slightly lifting it at each brace end location. Listen and feel for the end of the brace rubbing against the bowl rib as the sound board edge is moved back into contact with the rib. Also look at the end of each brace as the sound board is raised to visually assess if the fit is close.
As the sound hole is open at present another check would be to examine the fit of the braces from within - with sound board clamped in position - using a dentist's inspection mirror and light source or - if available - a low cost digital endoscope. I have not tried this (lutes do not have open sound holes!) but it should be possible. I am currently testing a low cost Chinese digital endoscope (costing only CAN $12!) to see how it might perform as an inspection tool for luthiers for this and other applications. I will post a report on the results sometime when I can get around to it.

It is of course important structurally (and acoustically) that all of the brace ends should be a close fit against the bowl side rib but it is not an easy task to make everything a perfect fit (like everything about making an oud!). Go slowly and take your time and all will be well in the end.

The rosette looks just fine to me as it is, Well done! When I cut lute rosettes (using chisels/knives not saws) I leave everything as it comes fresh off the knife and do not fuss with any clean up (that could spoil the crisp appearance of the finished work). I do usually chip carve the face of a rosette in accordance with lute tradition which does help to improve the appearance but this is easier done in the sound board softwood of a lute than it would in a hard wood rosette material - and one slip of the knife can ruin everything! I leave the paper rosette pattern glued in place as reinforcement - as was the way with early lutes.

faggiuols - 11-22-2016 at 02:56 AM

thanks Jdowning
I will check, as you suggest, the contact between braces and bowl.
I have the feeling that in the current location are all in contact.

about the rosette I will make small not invasive tests to understand if the aesthetic go better or worse, and then I will decide what to do.
I do not like it very much as it is now!
thanks a lot for everything.
to the next

faggiuols - 1-4-2017 at 08:54 AM

Goodmorning everyone
I'm coming to the final stage of the construction of my first oud.
I attach the picture of the current state. I'm digging the position for the beard.
soon I'll be ready for painting and, finally, to hear the voice of the oud.
I need some suggestions for the strings to mounted on. someone could advise me make and model of strings that I have to buy?
I thank you all in advance.

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faggiuols - 1-19-2017 at 09:14 AM

What do you think of these string?


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Etman - 1-19-2017 at 08:48 PM

I have tried them for the last 5 months ... I found them to be excellent and very good quality with nice sound .. I use the C-c tuning... I30
I do not think you will regret it .
I like the Aquila strings



Yasser

faggiuols - 1-20-2017 at 12:09 AM

Quote: Originally posted by Etman  
I have tried them for the last 5 months ... I found them to be excellent and very good quality with nice sound .. I use the C-c tuning... I30
I do not think you will regret it .
I like the Aquila strings



Yasser



thank you very much Etman

faggiuols - 2-24-2017 at 07:08 AM

I was not able to resist the temptation to feel the oud voice!!!!
:D

I used the following tuning with Aquila strings:
F A D g c f
but I do not know which octaves I am!
There are two octaves between the F and the f?
tuning f, I broke the string twice!
can someone help me?

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obar - 3-1-2017 at 02:56 AM

The low F should be one halfstep above the low E on a guitar I think (I use C-cc tuning myself). Assuming that you are tuning your oud F A d g c f, the lowest string should be three octaves below the highest f. This gives the oud three and a half octaves of range.

Where do the strings break? At the nut or in between?

Edit: oops, two octaves apart. My mind went low F= first octave, High f= thrid octave.

newlife_ks - 3-1-2017 at 05:01 AM

As far as I know the Aquila strings in the red package should be the 130 set which is used for C F A d g c tuning. Have a look at the package! If you really tuned them a fourth higher than given you'd better not wonder why they break.

faggiuols - 3-1-2017 at 08:20 AM

Quote: Originally posted by obar  
The low F should be one halfstep above the low E on a guitar I think (I use C-cc tuning myself). Assuming that you are tuning your oud F A d g c f, the lowest string should be three octaves below the highest f. This gives the oud three and a half octaves of range.

Where do the strings break? At the nut or in between?

Edit: oops, two octaves apart. My mind went low F= first octave, High f= thrid octave.


thanks Obar
in fact I've tuning to two octaves.
so I was not wrong!
the string broke twice, the first near the nut, the second time near the bridge.
I think therefore that the string was defective because I was tuning in right note.

faggiuols - 3-1-2017 at 08:23 AM

Quote: Originally posted by newlife_ks  
As far as I know the Aquila strings in the red package should be the 130 set which is used for C F A d g c tuning. Have a look at the package! If you really tuned them a fourth higher than given you'd better not wonder why they break.


I checked. The correct notes were written on small envelopes containing the single string.
So I do not think I was wrong. the string was defective unfortunately!
thanks a lot newlife_ks for your message

faggiuols - 3-22-2017 at 01:57 AM

Goodmorning everyone
I finally arrived at the end of my big trip in the construction of my first oud !!
They are ready to paint it.
I have a big doubt! The fretboard is to be painted or left to wood?
thanks to those who will help me.

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SamirCanada - 3-22-2017 at 05:37 AM

Leave it to wood. you can put some lemon oil on it if you want to condition it a little bit.

faggiuols - 3-22-2017 at 07:42 AM

Quote: Originally posted by SamirCanada  
Leave it to wood. you can put some lemon oil on it if you want to condition it a little bit.


thanks a lot Samir
can I also use tru oil?



SamirCanada - 3-22-2017 at 08:49 AM

tru oil is a varnish that will dry on top of the wood. What happens is after playing for a few weeks the strings will make grooves into the varnish and it will start to buzz.

lemon oil will penetrate the wood and give it a darker appearance but not dry on top.

faggiuols - 3-22-2017 at 08:54 AM

Quote: Originally posted by SamirCanada  
tru oil is a varnish that will dry on top of the wood. What happens is after playing for a few weeks the strings will make grooves into the varnish and it will start to buzz.

lemon oil will penetrate the wood and give it a darker appearance but not dry on top.


very clear!
grazie

faggiuols - 4-29-2017 at 12:09 AM

Here it is.
I've attached the pictures of my first finished oud.
I built it for over two years. I started in September 2014!
It was a very difficult time of my life, totally devoid of beautiful things, so I decided to devote myself to my passion, always neglected, the luthiery.
Oud has always been my favorite musical instrument!
Today my life is not in the same difficulty as two years ago, even because of my first oud.
I want to thank all of you who have followed me in this difficult journey, having no experience nothing of luthiery.
Special thanks to Jdowning, who has made available to me his immense culture to help me in this building, and Samircanada for accompanying me with many suggestions and valuable advice to Alfaraby for giving me beautiful roxette designs! Without them, it would not be possible to realize this dream!
Thanks also to all those who have spent a few moments to follow the topic that ends here!
I also hope to attach an audio file to show the sound that sounds great to me!

Soon, friends .. maybe for my second oud!


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paulO - 4-29-2017 at 12:59 PM

Dear faggiuols,

Fantastic work man ! You've got a tremendous eye for detail, the pegbox, contrasting neck, position dots, are so beautifully crafted. The bowl has some terrific grain, and a lovely deep finish. The purfling around the center soundhole is a trip and a half ! I'd been following your oud building journey - just on and off over the past 2 years, so congratulations ! Can't wait to hear how it sounds !!

Best Regards,

Paul

faggiuols - 4-29-2017 at 11:40 PM

Quote: Originally posted by paulO  
Dear faggiuols,

Fantastic work man ! You've got a tremendous eye for detail, the pegbox, contrasting neck, position dots, are so beautifully crafted. The bowl has some terrific grain, and a lovely deep finish. The purfling around the center soundhole is a trip and a half ! I'd been following your oud building journey - just on and off over the past 2 years, so congratulations ! Can't wait to hear how it sounds !!

Best Regards,

Paul



Dear PaulO

Really thanks for your congratulations!
They were very welcome.
I've put into the building this oud all my heart and my passion and I am very happy about how it is done.
There are many defects due to my total inexperience, but all this is right to be part of my first oud.
I am struggling hard in tuning with wooden pegs. The neck seems too big and too thick. I followed Hankey's book, but today but I would do otherwise. Maybe I must get used to it.
As soon as I can, I will link an audio file!
thank you
Regards

jdowning - 4-30-2017 at 03:05 PM

Dear faggiuols - so you made it! Fantastic effort and fine workmanship for which you must be justly very proud. May this instrument be the first of many to come and I trust that it will return beauty, joy and tranquility to your life.
All the very best
John

SamirCanada - 5-1-2017 at 05:23 AM

I don't deserve your compliments Faggiuols. You made a beautiful first oud and as you say I also hope its the first of many. I really like the wood and inlays combination. great job.

If you allow me, the nut where the strings go over neck looks very high! it will be hard to play like this, it needs to be 1mm or even less away from the fingerboard. Now it looks like almost 3mm! It will also lower the action a little bit which seems high at the moment.



faggiuols - 5-2-2017 at 12:13 AM

Quote: Originally posted by jdowning  
Dear faggiuols - so you made it! Fantastic effort and fine workmanship for which you must be justly very proud. May this instrument be the first of many to come and I trust that it will return beauty, joy and tranquility to your life.
All the very best
John


Dear John

to know that you followed my topic helped me a lot!
thank you so much
Guido

faggiuols - 5-2-2017 at 12:18 AM

Quote: Originally posted by SamirCanada  
I don't deserve your compliments Faggiuols. You made a beautiful first oud and as you say I also hope its the first of many. I really like the wood and inlays combination. great job.

If you allow me, the nut where the strings go over neck looks very high! it will be hard to play like this, it needs to be 1mm or even less away from the fingerboard. Now it looks like almost 3mm! It will also lower the action a little bit which seems high at the moment.




Dear Samir

As always, you don't miss the details.
it's very true. The bridge has to be lowered and the action is still high. All setup has yet to be done. Even pegs are unmanageable and I have great difficulty tuning the oud.
All this I will do in the next few days with calm, but what scares me is to play it !!!
As soon as I finish the setup, I will try to post an audio file!

Thanks to Samir

Guido

Fritz - 5-20-2017 at 09:30 PM

Hey faggiuols

Great work ! Go on like this !!!

Iīve been away from Germany for some time and some reason, leaving all I had, trying to check out a new start with new environment and people.

Itīs nice to see you have been active in completing your first Oud, and you must have had many difficulties, but you have mastered them and made them smaller and smaller. So I hope, you will gonm on and in the near future we see more of your work.

I finished some other Ouds, a very worthful one with some fine details, but now Iīm not realy able to make Ouds, missing the time and the patience.

Iīve been moving back to germany, there is a completely new workshop in my flat, and one (for rougher things) in my cellar, so it could be possible that I start some new projects in Oud-making.

Kind regards to you, and may be weīll have some nice postings of your next project ?

Fritz

faggiuols - 5-21-2017 at 11:33 PM

Hi Fritz
It's great to see you're still with us, here in the forum!
I missed you a lot!!!
Your encouragement was very useful.
Thanks for the compliments to my first oud, and I hope everything is fine for you.

I have a next project, it's a archtop bass guitar (I play the bass guitar). I'm still on autocad, doing the project. this forum, I think, not be interested in my new project, but I would be honored if I wanted to follow me (even via mail) in building it!
I greet you and wish you the best things for you!
Guido
ps. Post photos of your work on this forum. I find them wonderful!

Fritz - 1-4-2019 at 03:55 PM

Hello faggiuols

I hope you get this message...

Di molto tempo... since we talked on Ouds and about making them. I had a lot of (bad) trouble in the last 3 to 4 years, and there have been many reasons wich made me unpossible to go far with Oud-making.
About 2 years ago I sent my last completed Oud to Austria, a very high quality 12 string Oud with fine materials and extras.

Now I have a new place to live, a new shop with some good stuff in it to go on with making Ouds, but my hands are not willing to improve my ambitions. My healthyness decreases, but perhaps I will try to make some more work, but I canīt promise it will have some releases soon. Iīll try my very best. :shrug:

My web-site has been "killed"... the hoster has just stopped any improvement, so my homepage isnīt online any more. I donīt have the energy to give it another try at a new hoster.

I just want to say Iīm here (again) and following your forthcoming on building Ouds :wavey:

Best wishes to you !

Fritz

faggiuols - 1-7-2019 at 02:40 AM

Hi Fritz !!!
it's nice to see you're here!
I am very heartbroken about the things you write and I wish you all the best.
I do not know when I will resume the activity of creating oud, I too have had a lot of problems lately, I changed my house and now my energies are all aimed at putting in place the house where I am now living. But I have my oud and I'm trying to learn how to play it, frankly with very little results!
Let's keep in touch. If you build something send me mail, I would be honored.
Thank you and good luck for everything.
Guido

Fritz - 1-26-2019 at 03:13 AM

Guido :-)

Keep on playing, itīs all you can do for real ! Keeping the stuff in mind, the instrument, the playing, beeing in touch with it, thatīs all you can do, allthough you may be involved hard with yor new home. I hope, there is some place to build a workshop ?
For me itīs nearly the same... in my new home here, after the things left in the past. New minds and new opportunities, new options and new power, thatīs all we might have to go forward in life. But, as I might feel like you, itīs hard to concentrate, to be in focus for some things we are planning :-)
So much ideas but so less time and room in the head to stay in porogress...

Keep focussed :-)

Best greetings
Helge

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