Mike's Oud Forums

My trip to Cairo

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Edward Powell - 12-10-2008 at 04:43 AM

Hi Everybody---

I have not been posting for ages, but it looks like I am about to start cuz next week I am off to CAIRO for 3 months of total immersion into ARAB OUD LAND!

I am wondering if anyone has done this before (silly question)? I really need some advice!

-first, the basic things like where to find a decent and cheap hotel in a reasonable location?? this is my first concern...

-second, where to go to see and meet all the great young oud players

-where to buy a ready made oud

-etc etc

ANY COMMENTS OR ADVICE WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.

I would be happy to document my trip here if there is interest (another silly question!)

thanks

Edward

SamirCanada - 12-10-2008 at 06:10 AM

post all you can edward!
it will be most appreciated.

good luck for your trip

suz_i_dil - 12-10-2008 at 08:51 AM

I studied in arabic oud house, directed by Naseer Shamma, house el Harrawy. This is a touristic place also, so you will find the adress in any touristic guide book, it is in Al Azhar area.
This school is not only around Naseer Shamma playing, for exemple my teacher there largely introduced me to old classical arabic and turkish.
I send you my email, via U2U if you need more info.
Regards

Edward Powell - 12-10-2008 at 09:25 AM

yes, the arab oud house... must be a cool place! I will check it out.

however, at this time I am not so interested in the iraqi style... straight arab oud is what Im after and i am sure there is no shortage there.

where did you stay when in cairo, can you recommend reasonable area clean cheap hotels?

my guess is that the oudmaker shops and music schools will be the best places to meet oudis? ...well, I will soon find out.

SamirCanada - 12-10-2008 at 09:47 AM

http://www.mauriceouds.com/

you should go visit maurice

Christian1095 - 12-10-2008 at 10:34 AM

Have fun on your trip... I'm completely envious.... :mad:

Please take lots of pictures and share them with the forum...

Edward Powell - 12-10-2008 at 10:51 AM

Thanks Chris - and yes... I will!

Let me introduce myself a bit... of course you can see my website etc. . . . but otherwise -

essentially I began as a guitarist, turned indian classical sitarist for 20 years. About 15 years ago i fell in love with the oud, and began to get into it.

in the last years i have spent a lot of time in istanbul studying with necati, and also building my own original instrument in faruk's workshop.

what i play now is my own doubleneck fretless guitar which is a bit like an oud and a sarod in one guitar body...

here are some LIVE clips

http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=iz3dzQzJDrE&feature=channel_page


http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=100TI2B73mI&feature=channel_page


http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=5ZZ_Jsqcx5g&feature=channel_page


over the last 6 months I have been building a new BARITONE ragmakamtar--- and it is almost ready-
here are a couple of clips of the "oud neck" TEST CLIPS ONLY



http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=_WPzBI4h0l4&feature=channel_page


http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=Ne-eGhq_9gw&feature=channel_page

suz_i_dil - 12-10-2008 at 11:26 AM

Just to precise this school is a good occasion to meet with other musicians, and is not close to other style.
Each of the teachers have his own style, it is not a Shamma clone industry...)
But the best is to go there and have a look, the lessons were 3 afternoons by week, you can go there around 5 pm to see how it works.
Moreover it may has change a lot, I was there 4 years ago and recent videos of the school orchestra on youtube show saz players, kemanche, pipa luth ( from Asia )...

Edward Powell - 12-10-2008 at 03:13 PM

cool!

shareen - 12-10-2008 at 08:49 PM

Gee, you must be independently wealthy. ;) I have this pesky day job and a mortgage that prevents me from being the world traveler I dream of being. I can only get away for max 2 weeks at a time. Have a great time!!

Edward Powell - 12-11-2008 at 12:13 AM

haha! Well... without getting too personal regarding my circumstances - the truth be known. . . althought it has been my dream since 15 years (!) to live in Cairo for a while... but since the EU changed it's visa requirements - now canadians must leave the EU completely every 3 months and be OUT for 3 months. This situation has cause a lot of inconvenience for me since I basically live in Czech.

So at the moment i am using the situation to my advantage and getting in all the travelling I always wanted to do... in one way it is great because otherwise my partner would never agree that i would just take off every 3 months FOR 3 MONTHS IN SOME EXOTIC COUNTRY. ---but the clincher is something regarding marriage--- so in order to solve this problem we must make some BIG decisions.

regarding $$$ ---yes, in the meantime my living expenses have gone thru the roof. . . . therefore I will be looking to cut costs in any way I can, if possible. In istanbul I managed to get all the music teaching I could dream of for free. The main expense- as always- is accommodation... and this is really my main concern.

independently wealthy no... but I have no mortgage, and own no property, no debts, no obligations, no fixed job.... a real gypsy life:rolleyes:

John Erlich - 12-11-2008 at 11:47 AM

Hi Edward,

I am also jealous, and I DON'T have a mortgage (at least not yet!). ;)

When I visited Cairo, I stayed at the Windsor Hotel ("Fundaq Windisor" fi'l 'Arabi), which is where Michael Palin (Monty Python) stayed during his pole-to-pole road trip film. (http://www.windsorcairo.com/) They are reasonably priced, but maybe not cheap enough if you are planning for 3 months.

I would recommend the Lonely Planet Cairo guide. They do have some info availble on-line, such as:

Cairo: Hotel El-Hussein (Hotel) 0.3 business Address:
Midan hussein, Khan al-khalili , Cairo , Egypt
Show on map
Lonely Planet Review
Terry Carter
Lonely Planet author
It's worn, it's old, it's pretty gritty, but this hotel is about the best option if you fancy a location right at the heart of the atmospheric Khan al-Khalili bazaar.

While this old hotel has the usual Cairo budget trademarks such as peeling paint, worn-out furniture and none-too-clean bathrooms, the character of the area goes a long way to make up for it. The beds are okay compared to the other budget hotels in Cairo and while the rooms have seen better days (an indeterminate length of time ago), they are reasonably clean and have great views of the square below. The big balconies are ideal places to sip a beer after a long day sightseeing. The public spaces of the hotel are institutional and dirty, and the carpets were ripped in places, but given the location you're either going to be out shopping in the nearby streets or hanging out on the balcony.

But maybe Lonely Planet has some info on finding sublet or longer-term apartments? Cairo Craig'sList?

Good luck,
John

Edward Powell - 12-11-2008 at 01:20 PM

Hi John

Yes...! thanks so much... finally it looks like LP is what I need. Unfortunately I am in CZECH and English books are not available really - especially in Ostrava!

But perhaps online I can get enough info to get me by for the first night or two - then once I am there it ought to be pretty straight forward... maybe be able to pick up a second hand LP book?

Couple of other questions for Y'ALL..... my plan is to get a hold of sheet music for some quite widely know classical pieces. Then make my way around to meeting as many oudis as possible - DV camera in hand, and encourage them to play for me. [this tactic worked wonders in istanbul and I have about 15 hours of prime footage!] ...so, can anyone recommend somewhere online where one can download sheetmusic???

Secondly, [now we are getting more technical] would anyone be able to come up with perhaps a short list of well known classical pieces showing a comprehensive selection of maqam usage? Pieces which when studied would give the learner a clear standard picture of how the major maqams are working. . . pieces that your average conservatory oud student will all know.

I'm not sure how long Arab pieces are compared to Turkish saz semai... but if the length is comparable, then 12 - 15 pieces will probably do me fine for 3 months study. . . .

THANKS... if anyone can help me with this!

shareen - 12-11-2008 at 09:10 PM

Here's something that will allow you to meet and live with locals for a bit. Try "Couch Surfing". It's a website that hooks you up with people that welcome guests into their homes. I think it must be couchsurfing.com or something. Google it. I was going to do that last year when I made plans to go to Cairo but I came down with the flu and had to stay in Jerusalem instead of going on to Cairo. Good luck!

Marina - 12-12-2008 at 07:08 AM

Google the "Roma pansion" in Cairo - I staid there - very good & center & reasonable price.

Edward Powell - 12-12-2008 at 03:06 PM

thanks Shareen and Marina... I have heard of couch surfing and it sounds like particularly a great idea in expensive countrys! Probably i will go for a private living place since I will need my own zone to concentrate on oud stuff...

Roma pension sounds good... and I can see now that this downtown area must just be full of places to stay, so there ought not be a problem - - - but you know how it is, before going to an unfamiliar city for the first time, the first fear is where to stay....

Actually i am much more concerned about the music. My main experience with makam music is turkish. ---and I have somewhat of a handle on that now. I am now really sure how arabic music is laid out... my guess it is pretty similar, although a lot of the classical repertoire is made up of songs by om kalsoum, riad sombate, mohamad abdel waheb etc etc...

if anyone can help me with this it is appreciated. But anyway, very soon i will be in the middl of the source, so all info will be at my fingertips :-)

it's going to be a very old dream come true. . . . . . .

as you know, I do not perform with an actual oud... I perform on my fretless guitar which is set up just like an oud. But i will buy a decent oud in cairo for study. In istanbul i managed to sift thru the crap and found a really decent oud for 200Euro! ---then sold it in Czech for 400Euro :-)

nayoud - 12-14-2008 at 08:15 PM

Great so at last you decided to go!! ... good luck .. I'll send you a phone number of someone you can call for help regarding Arabic classical music in Cairo.

Cheers
Hisham

Edward Powell - 12-14-2008 at 11:39 PM

THANK YOU:xtreme:

Marina - 12-15-2008 at 11:46 AM

Maybe I'll come in February.

Edward Powell - 12-15-2008 at 12:37 PM

Cool!
I'll be there insha-allah!
Let's hang!

Edward Powell - 12-25-2008 at 01:53 PM

Hi Everybody....

well, I made it down here in one piece, and have actually managed to get myself settled into a pretty nice spacious double room overlooking Cairo's main drag

downtown. My hotel doesn't have Internet but I noticed that my laptop picks up a strong WIFI signal from the Hotel across the street so I went over there and

asked them if I could use their Internet in their lobby with my own laptop for 30 minutes............... :-)

Cairo is amazing... like a cross btw Istanbul and Calcutta. I have taken quite a few fotos of the streets and such but I think I will limit my posting to

fotos concerning music, ouds, and oud making in general.

So far I have been here just 3 nights and my time has been spent on searching for accommodation and an oud. I think I have a good enough room--- so that is

taken care of... and I just got back from purchasing an oud.

Mohammed Ali street, or "oud street" (as I like to call it), in fact does not have as many oud shops as I imagined, but still there are PLENTY! There are

basically no really good ouds there - or, just one quite good one. Most are hardly worthy of Faruk's "oud-like object" description. But what would one expect

for $20!!

There are also an astonishing number of bad sounding semi-profi level ouds there all for around 100Euro. My objective was to find something I could live with

for these 3 months and simply use for practice and the study of Arabic maqams - then sell later for a profit. Over the last 3 days must have tried at least

50 ouds. Only a few of them sounded halfway reasonable, and just 3 sounded quite good. One was way too expensive, the other, although having a great sound -

has an incorrect neck angle, and the third, I just purchased one hour ago :-)

I bought it at a shop called MARKO. This is the only shop on OUDSTREET that is run by musicians! In my opinion the only shop worth visiting in the whole

place. The instruments they have sound good and their prices are very low. They know music and can help with this also. In fact I got a very good lesson in

Arabic maqam from the guy who I bought the oud from, and I will go back there many times I am sure. Also, the first day I was there I met an entire Algerian

group that is performing tonight at the OPERA house (missed that)... but the point is that on oudstreet, this is the only place that has anything remotely

resembling a musical atmosphere, or a kind of 'hangout' for real musicians. If I am wrong PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE correct me and tell me where this musical

place is because this is what I am looking for. some thing like Ramazan's oud shop in Istanbul - a place where there is a constant and steady stream of good

musicians coming and going hanging out and playing.

Anyhow, now I have my room and my practice oud, so the next on the agenda is to learn a bit of Arabic, and also to start making contacts, and finding out

where all the cool concerts are happening :-)

...and to seek out and visit the really really good oud makers.

I also want to find someone who can teach me what is REALLY happening with Arab microtonalism. You know the Turkish official system there are 9 divisions to

the wholetone - this is still not completely accurate, but much more accurate than the official Arab system which only divides the whole tone into 4

division. I hope I can find someone to show me how the microtones are REALLY placed in Arabic music.

I hope you like the pictures from Oudstreet, Cairo!



[img]http://www.andreamurdock.com/CAIRO/ouddoc1 (2).jpg[/img]

Edward Powell - 12-25-2008 at 01:56 PM

not sure why the rest of the images didn't work - - - can anyone help me with this?
thanks!

Edward Powell - 12-25-2008 at 02:52 PM

[img]http://www.andreamurdock.com/CAIRO/ouddoc1(2).jpg[/img]

Melbourne - 12-25-2008 at 08:20 PM

Sounds like a very interesting trip....

Probably the resolution is very high, so you may need to resize the images...One way is to open them up in
photoshop and "save as" with half the resolution...

Start a new post too - am sure it will be worth it :)

Edward Powell - 12-26-2008 at 12:07 AM

[img]http://www.andreamurdock.com/CAIRO/ouddoc1(2).jpg[/img]

Edward Powell - 12-26-2008 at 12:08 AM


Edward Powell - 12-26-2008 at 12:11 AM





Edward Powell - 12-26-2008 at 12:15 AM











Edward Powell - 12-26-2008 at 12:17 AM










JT - 12-26-2008 at 03:00 AM

Hello Ed,

Good to see youre enjoying Cairo...

I will be in Cairo from Jan 4 - Jan 19. Send me an email at ujt83@hotmail.com Im sure I'll find some time for ya.

All the best,

JT

patheslip - 12-26-2008 at 05:03 AM

Great stuff. Please keep us up to date with your adventures, good and not so good.

nedal - 12-26-2008 at 09:00 AM

hey edd
hope you are doing good in cairo
do yo have a picture from the instrument you have bought

have a nice time there

nedal

Edward Powell - 12-26-2008 at 03:27 PM

yes!

here is a clip of my new oud...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8CYTSkIJ90s

Jameel - 12-26-2008 at 03:33 PM

Cool pics, Edward. Thanks for sharing.

SamirCanada - 12-26-2008 at 11:15 PM

Awsome!
I feel like I am there with you.
please keep bloggin about this experience I am going next year so I value the info very much.

enjoy

Edward Powell - 12-27-2008 at 01:13 AM

View from my room




Outside the opera house in the morning


interesting tree!



twin towers?



After getting info at the Opera house - I went to a concert of Classical Arabic music at the National Theare yesterday evening. An excellent group led by riqq player YASSER MOAWAD. I met the whole crew after the performance and they were as extremely friendly and welcoming. The cello player is a very old man who was one of the original members of OM KALSOUM'S orchestra! Yasser made me kiss him twice! Yasser kept telling me again and again that I MUST tell people in my country that THERE IS MUSIC IN EGYPT!!!!

The oud player was excellent and also spoke English. I got his contact info and he said that he teaches also -

I loved the concert. During the last 6 months in Czech while building instruments I always had OM KALSOUM music going on the in background... so it was such a pleasure to be able to recognise a lot of this groups repertoire - in fact I recognised almost the entire program! What I realise is that I particularly love the Arabic language for singing...


Edward Powell - 12-27-2008 at 05:41 AM

making a new nut










gregorypause - 12-27-2008 at 06:22 AM

Beatiful pictures! I have an oud from Gamil George similar to the one on the top right window of his shop in the picture. The workmanship is not the best but I like the sound nonetheless.

Egypt is an amazing place. There is nothing quite like it in the whole world!

Congrats on your oud!

Edward Powell - 12-27-2008 at 07:08 AM

Really... who IS Jamil George? ...it he the maker there?

Edward Powell - 12-27-2008 at 01:42 PM

Here is a rough clip of the Yasser gig...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bRYzJSc4pqo

revaldo29 - 12-27-2008 at 02:41 PM

Hi Edward,

Was that a sunbati taqassim on the youtube video? Could you please tell me the tunning of the oud? It sounds like its tuned down a note or two.

Adnan

Edward Powell - 12-27-2008 at 03:12 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by revaldo29
Hi Edward,

Was that a sunbati taqassim on the youtube video? Could you please tell me the tunning of the oud? It sounds like its tuned down a note or two.

Adnan



I think it was tuned normally for an arab oud...
he was demonstrating oshak makam.... maybe copying sombate??

gregorypause - 12-27-2008 at 10:51 PM

Gamil George is a maker who died a while ago. It is his son(s) who run the shop. The quality is not so great since the son(s) run the shop.

Here is a link with more info: http://www.mikeouds.com/messageboard/viewthread.php?tid=544

francis - 12-28-2008 at 04:26 AM

Hi Edward...

Thanks for your on line travel.....really nice and instructive to follow you in Cairo!
During your walk in "oud street" have you seen Essam El Wazery ouds or shop?
I would like to get an address to join him but.......
You can see one of his ouds here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YKHMKQku5P4

Bon voyage ......

Edward Powell - 12-28-2008 at 09:11 AM

hi francis

no i didn't see that shop...

---that video is unfortunately no longer available :-(

Melbourne - 12-28-2008 at 07:53 PM

One oud really caught my attention....I'm really old school here but I attached the image below...It looks like a Fathi Amin....beautiful oud...I don't like the repetitive theme of the shamasi - with the birds kissing - but that's just a minor thing....You didn't happen to get an idea of the price of such oud Edward in your journeys?

Thanks - Melbourne

Edward Powell - 12-29-2008 at 01:47 AM

of course! ...in fact this exact oud was the best from all my searching. However my only criteria for evaluation was SOUND and playability. Soliditiy of construction goes without saying, but cosmetics didn't enter much into my consideration. And of course, price was a key. I wanted to keep my purchase under 200Eur but didn't see much point in bargaining below 100, I mean, these people also have to earn a living.

This oud had the best sound from all that I tried on OUDSTREET, and in fact, in my opinion was the only really fully professional oud there. The price was $600US. The oud I bought was just over $100... and the sound is only very slightly inferior.

The point is that I will just resell my oud when I get home - - - I do not perform on actual ouds, but my own selfmade instrument which is a double neck fretless guitar setup very similar to an oud.

I think that this shop would go down to $500 for this oud - if you like I could pick it up for you... if there is someway to get it to you. It is an excellent instrument.

Melbourne - 12-30-2008 at 03:17 AM

Hi Edward...

I been going around in circles considering your kind offer to pick up this oud for me. Main problem is that I am in Australia - am not sure if you realised that...The other thing, even if its to be shipped directly from Egypt to here, it would most like arrive damaged. And for me it would be have to be a 615mm string length, not sure if you know the vibrating string length.

I'm just thinking of all the possibilities here, because at 500 bucks it would be a good buy...

How long are you planning to stay around in Egypt Edward?

Thanks again for your offer :)

Edward Powell - 12-30-2008 at 04:23 AM

i will be here until march 21...

i guess if you are serious i could just tell them at the shop to pack it up and post it off to you. Yes, it is a risk....

John Erlich - 12-30-2008 at 09:33 AM

Hi Edward,

Possibly stupid question: Have you been to Maurice Farouk Shehata's shop yet? See: http://www.mauriceouds.com/home.htm I visited Mohammed Ali St./El Qala'a St. in 2000 and also felt the quality of ouds there was pretty low (but bought a decent set of nays at the "Feyrouz" shop for $50.00).

Also, I am attaching info about an Alexandria-based oud builder (Higazi).

Good luck!

Ma'asalaama,
John

Edward Powell - 12-30-2008 at 11:08 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by gregorypause
Gamil George is a maker who died a while ago. It is his son(s) who run the shop. The quality is not so great since the son(s) run the shop.

Here is a link with more info: http://www.mikeouds.com/messageboard/viewthread.php?tid=544


thanks so much Greg... this is a fascinating thread - and a totally fresh topic for me... i read the whole thing!

Edward Powell - 12-30-2008 at 11:14 AM

i still have not visited a few essential places; maurice, araboudhouse, zamelek school etc etc and some contacts not yet contacted...

i am sort of laying low til after the new year...

just relaxing and settling into my new oud - practicing - analyzing maqams - listening to arab music - reading - eating felefel...... etc etc ---going for walks in the crazy crazy crazy city (but that is giving me headaches due to the high concentration of poisonous gases in the air---- bummer, that one!

abusin - 12-31-2008 at 02:09 AM

Hi Edward,

Man I am following this dream travel with wide open eyes, can you please describe your feelings as you walking through this oud heaven with its sounds smells and surrounded by ouds in different size and shapes :bounce:

I walk with you side by side through oud street in this post, but please >> please pay our friend Maurice Shehata a visit and show us his gems too, he is a great guy:bowdown: greetings to him from all of us here

I wish you all the best, sure this will be a great new year eve for you today so make the sound of oud ring the goodbye tune to 2008 and the welcoming ones to 2009.

Happy new year

Edward Powell - 12-31-2008 at 03:39 AM

Hi Awad

I noticed that NASEER is playing tonight near Zamelek, expensive but what the hell - ITS NEW YEARS EVE! ...but i wonder how serious the atmosphere will be??? i'm curious, i think i will pass by there.

yes I will visit maurice as soon as newyears is over etc.

i absolutely love this city - it has so much old world character and has not yet become a plastic and concrete modern sh...-hole. ---but it is headed in this direction, as is everywhere else.

my only reservation is the air, which is soooo bad that i get headaches now after only 20 minutes out in the street. I am seriously considering shifting down to Aswan... anyway, my guess is that there is some serious Sudan-style oud and fold singing going on down there, and I have wanted to learn something about that for many years now.

Has anyone got any experience with the oud and Nubia style playing and related thing down is Aswan????

SamirCanada - 12-31-2008 at 06:31 AM

Edward, you could try staying in Alexandria.
its probably a little better.

John Erlich - 12-31-2008 at 09:34 AM

Hi Edward,

I visited Aswan in 1995. I don't remember much organized music happening there (I believe we caught a takht ensemble performing outdoors at a fancy Nile-side hotel [Old Cataract?]), but Aswan is the cusp of Black Africa, and the people there are extremely musical. I remember being in a taxi, stopped at a traffic light, and the young men in the car next to us were playing the tablah (doumbek), clapping and singing! I think the atmosphere there also inspires Egyptians from other regions to break out into song, also! I highly recommend a several-day visit to Aswan.

I think Samir may be right about Alexandria. It's a smaller city, but large enough to (probably) have some kind of significant music scene. Maybe Mr. Higazi (oud builder) can hook you up? If you go, don't miss lunch as Mohamed Ahmed Foul (Foul Mohamed Ahmed. Raml Station 17 Shokour St. Alexandria, +2.03.4873576 +20 3 4879119 delivery. Hours Daily, 8:00am to 1:00 am).

All the best & Happy New Year,
John

Melbourne - 1-1-2009 at 12:02 AM

Edward....

That oud I was talking about....I think that it is a Jamil Georges oud (the sons) - now that I look at the post and the links a little closer :D and although theres mixed opinions on the work of the sons here - the oud seems like a decent instrument.

I'm sure that the overwhelming presence of oud fever and Cairo fumes will balance out just fine in a few more days!!

And I send you U2U!

HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL!\

regards..

gregorypause - 1-1-2009 at 01:02 AM

Air quality was always an issue in Cairo. Are you downtown now? I'd move either into Zamalek, Mohandiseen or even Heliopolis or Maadi if I were you. It's been about 15 years I was last there and don't remember being affected this much.

Edward Powell - 1-1-2009 at 02:12 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by gregorypause
Air quality was always an issue in Cairo. Are you downtown now? I'd move either into Zamalek, Mohandiseen or even Heliopolis or Maadi if I were you. It's been about 15 years I was last there and don't remember being affected this much.


Yeah it is pretty horrendous--- the air along the streets... there seems to be no pollution controls on any vehicles, - so many of them, and just spewing out clowds of toxic black smoke...

...but I also guess that I will get used to it in a while, and only being here 2 or 3 months, it is not going to kill me since, otherwise I live in a place with good air :-)

I am growing a bit attached to my room actually, I love being right on top and in the center of everything.... it's a bit addictive. However, I will check out those other areas too.

HAPPY NEW YEAR!

...funny, last night I went out for a stroll around 11pm, and after 20 minutes decided to avoid the fumes a bit and get onto some side streets.... well, 12 midnight came and passed without so much as an extraneous beep! I mean, in the Western world, it doesn't matter WHERE you are, you are going to hear SOMETHING at midnight on NYE... but right in the middle of CAIRO (20million people), on a sidestreet downtown, and... nothing!

obviously muslims are not too emotionally attached to the new year of the Christian calendar!

...now don't ask what Xmas was like here!!!! :)

John Erlich - 1-1-2009 at 11:18 PM

I believe that Egypt's Coptic Church celebrates Christmas on Wed., Jan. 7th, according to the Julian calendar, not the Gregorian calendar date of Dec. 25th.

So...stay tuned...

Peace,
John

SamirCanada - 1-3-2009 at 12:04 AM

yes on January 6th at midnight....

you can read this for info.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coptic_Cairo

Edward Powell - 1-3-2009 at 02:40 AM

interesting!

going to meet mohammed antar tonight who seems happy to get me more connected with the scene here! I'm really looking forward - - - THANKS NAYOUD!!!

also looking forward to meeting JT who is pass thru at the moment.

still havent check maurice or naseer....

yesterday i was laid out pretty bad for a few hours with some serious stomach issues. Horrible, but luckily it passed quickly. So from now on I will avoid ALL salads and felafel - anything that has been handled by hands or has had the chance to sit around. I will just eat the beans and pita in the restaurants and buy my own veggies from the markets.

sorry for the lack of fotos but my bootlegged internet is extremely slow!!!

Cairo

ibn sina - 1-8-2009 at 07:39 AM

Hi Edward,

Hey good luck! I bought my oud at Gawharet al-Fan, 160-168 Mohammad Ali St. in Attaba (Cairo). There are many oud and music shops there. Mine was $150 in June, 2006, which was OK. I am a total beginner, so not looking for an expensive one. But it sounds nice.

Do you speak Arabic? There are some nice hotels in Zamalek. I was living and working there. If you're staying for three months, you should be able to find an apt. share. There's a website: cairoscholars. You have to apply, send an email to: cairoscholars@utlists.utexas.edu

and then you can post queries there for flats. I found them very helpful. There is a large expat community. I know Nasser Shamma has an oud academy in the old city. I don't know anything about it. It could be pretty hit or miss, but you might check it out.

good luck!
Kiki

Edward Powell - 1-10-2009 at 04:39 AM

Hi Friends...

It has been a while since I checked in. A while back I lost my WIFI connection, and decided not to bother trying to get another. I think having Internet in my room was good for the first 2 weeks as a way of "easing into" this new culture. But I have a tendency to get a bit addicted to the Net - and often it becomes a bit of an 'escape' - so anyway, the result of not having it in my room is that I become in fact more "present" in the here and now. However, it makes communication more inconvenient - although the connection speed at the cafe is about 10X faster than what I had....

Well.... things have starting taking shape - and started to roll somewhat. My health is fine again, and even the smog is not bothering me like it used to. Also, I have started making some good friends with good people so I am not feeling as alone and potentially vulnerable as I was.

One recent highlight was a sort of surprise visit to my place by one of the world's very best Arab oud players - Joseph Tawadros. We connected thru the oud forum and he popped around after flying in from Australia (where he lives). Funny how these things happen because Joe contacted me just a day or so after I was trying to contact HIM thru the net, but gave up when I realised he is Australia-based. But, next thing you know he is walking thru my door and we are jamming together on our ouds!

Joes gave me a sort of 'million-dollar in five minutes' oud lesson which in itself was worth the whole trip to Cairo for... What I learned right away was the "correct way" hold the oud and stroke with the right hand. I realise now that this very low placement of the right arm (rather than a high 'guitar-style' right arm placement) is key to Arab technique. Many Turks also do this, but many also seem to place the right arm quite high. But high or low - the main point is the have an extremely loose wrist, and I discovered that the low placement makes the loose wrist much much more easy.

Joe and I jammed for about 20 minutes - and I videoed that... will soon get it up on the TUBE. Joe is really a great guy--- very open, friendly, helpful, and unassuming... hopefully we will get together again before he heads off to Paris for a 3 month artist residency there.

Otherwise, other than practicing a lot - I have been trying to get keyed into where the concerts are and where the oud players hang out. The Opera House for me was just an aggravating experience and nothing there but Western classical music (didn't come to Cairo for that) --- althought the National Theatre has a lot of Arabic classical music. There is an extremely cool and happening cultural center in Zamelek called the "Cultural Wheel"... I just now returned from there -from the Mohammed Antar concert which was great- but short (only 40 minutes). This venue has MANY interesting concerts and things happening, and it is right on the river and has a relaxed garden type atmosphere (very rare) where you can sit and nobody expects you to buy anything... lots of young cultural people there with instruments... very very good place!

What I was NOT expecting was to be so impressed by the Arab Oud House. This place is really appealing to me. First of all- it is in the most interesting part of Cairo--- right in the old city- you feel like the Sultan never left! The house itself is an old Ottoman palace, perhaps even a harem....? the ceilings must be 15 meters hight and full of wood carvings... such an atmosphere!! On weekdays there is plenty of teaching going on: qanun, saz, percussion, oud...! I just hung around and everyone is so friendly... You just pay by the month and the teacher is there for 4 hours 3X/week. So you might have the teacher all to yourself, or there may be a few other students there also. And it seems there are several teachers rotating. The cost is very reasonable. I just met one of the oud teachers so far, and although he was not most inspiring player and teacher I've ever met, he certainly could play some pretty cool maqam riffs, and that's what I'm looking for. I don't need anyone (except maybe someone like Joe!) to teach me HOW to play the oud, or necessarily about the theory (which Antar has promised to help me with) - more than anything, I need to be AROUND Arab oud players to 'catch' the style. It is the 'style' that I am after...

Edward Powell - 1-10-2009 at 04:40 AM









Edward Powell - 1-12-2009 at 06:36 AM

Thanks Kiki

I am actually feeling very very settled and comfortable where I am now :-) I like it very much.

I was at a graduation concert at the OUDHOUSE, and very surprised by the quality of the graduate's playing. I don't like to be critical however. I think the school has a real dillemna... because it is so rare that anyone these days even has INTEREST to study oud and classical music, you really don't want to do anything or say anything that might crush that interest - - - however, if the school does not maintain a certain standard, then it will lose status and a legitimate cultural institution.

My guess is that the average level down here is not very high (too early to state that for certain). But I am surprised at the appearant vacuum... I mean, other than Naseer, WHO is there? And Naseer is not even playing in an Egyptian style.

Who else is there? Simon Shaheen......? he is in New york....

It seems that Naseer walked in to a vacuum and is doing his best (and a GREAT JOB) to save the oud situation. . . . . that's my take on it so far.... subject to revision. :-)

ps- it is impossible for me to post any more fotos on the net while I am here- - - if there is interest, and someone would be willing to volunteer to post them for me, I could send pre-compressed fotos to someone's email address in a zip file... just let me know if someone would be willing to do this for us - - - and I can start again with fotos of cairo and scene here. THANKS!

katakofka - 1-12-2009 at 09:53 AM

Hi Edward
I am following your thread with interest and enjoying your posts.
Regarding the vacuum you mentioned it's true. As compared to Egypt population (around 80 Million) the oud players in Egypt are rare or at least are not known.
A big name is Mamdouh el jibaali, an excellent player.
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=GPTjdhjTzrQ&feature=related

Many new good players came out the Oudhouse of Nasser such as Mhammad abou zekri
http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=KSIUR4eEfdQ&feature=related

and hazem shaaheen
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=vHCKKTWrUXs&feature=related

more to come for sure
Best
Souheil

Edward Powell - 1-25-2009 at 09:00 AM

well by 'coincidence' last week i found myself with Joe and Mamdoh at M's place - - - they allowed me to film their jam session...

here is part one of five :-)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KWn2ysvVUZU

edward powell music

MatthewW - 1-25-2009 at 09:56 AM

Hi Edward- this is slightly off topic, but I've just been looking at some of your youtube clips of you playing that double neck guitar and all I can say is amazing!
:buttrock:If anyone out there hasn't seen any of them, go check them out, like this one:
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=5ZZ_Jsqcx5g&feature=channel_page

I'd like to ask you if you sell these or similar double neck guitars, and all the details. regards, MW

Edward Powell - 1-25-2009 at 03:07 PM

Hi Matt

Thanks so much for the compliments and the plug! Much appreciated...

However the link you've posted doesn't lead to my clips :rolleyes: ...but that is sure a cool clip regardless! Is it you playing? Bravo... Raga on OUD! Hey, we must be brothers!

Regarding seeing instruments like these... yes, recently I made something similar for a fine Russian musician nadishana.com ---this instrument is called a DZUDAHORD and you can see clips of it, and all my other stuff on:
http://www.youtube.com/edwardpowellmusic

So it is possible that I can make a custom instrument for others it I have time. For more details just send me a PM and I am more than happy to discuss - even just for fun to talk about possible new interesting instruments... this is my passion as you might have guessed:rolleyes:

...thanks again bro for you kind words.
I am down here now with just an oud, and I looking forward to getting back to my Ragmakamtar, and I am sure that when I do you are going to start hearing some serious Arabic flavour forthcoming :rolleyes:

PS- Joe has been here and he has helped me enormously! What a player! By far the best player I have seen around here. In fact the only one I've seen here that has inspired me in any kind if major way - - -

THANK JOE!

---more of your clips are upcoming!

Ararat66 - 1-25-2009 at 04:40 PM

Hey Edward

Great adventure, nice to see you've hooked up with Joe - I had the pleasure of meeting up with him a couple of years ago and he gave me one of those 'million dollar' oud lessons by the side of the river Thames. It is great you are getting this in Cairo - I love your double necked oud /sitar!!!

Give my best regards to Joe if you see him again. Good luck to you - I'm really enjoying this travelogue.

Leon:xtreme:

Edward Powell - 1-25-2009 at 05:11 PM

Thanks Leon

I just today changed hotels and now I have a much much better room WITH WIFI!!! ...so I will now be much more in touch -

Stay tuned - and thanks!

John Erlich - 1-25-2009 at 08:27 PM

Hi Edward,

Thanks for posting your film of Joseph and Mamdoh!

Also, I want to emphasize the importance of something you said earlier in your post regarding your lesson with Joseph:

----------------------------
What I learned right away was the "correct way" hold the oud and stroke with the right hand. I realise now that this very low placement of the right arm (rather than a high 'guitar-style' right arm placement) is key to Arab technique. Many Turks also do this, but many also seem to place the right arm quite high. But high or low - the main point is the have an extremely loose wrist, and I discovered that the low placement makes the loose wrist much much more easy.
----------------------------

I couldn't agree more!

Thanks,
John

SamirCanada - 1-25-2009 at 08:32 PM

Amazing footage.

That made my day.

Ustaz mamdooh is drawing some expressions from the crowd. That was really a master class in modulations!!

Joe is holding it down with his wicked style!!

possibly to two best egyptian virtuosos doing what they do best.

MatthewW - 1-26-2009 at 02:11 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by Edward Powell
Hi Matt

Thanks so much for the compliments and the plug! Much appreciated...

However the link you've posted doesn't lead to my clips :rolleyes: ...but that is sure a cool clip regardless! Is it you playing? Bravo... Raga on OUD! Hey, we must be brothers!




Sorry 'bout that folks, I posted the wrong youtube clip which has now been changed to one of Edwards! Yes that was me messing about with a raga style approach to the oud, and I am sure we are brothers musically!:)

Edward Powell - 1-26-2009 at 02:31 AM

Thanks All...

Ok so now I am uploading PART TWO (there are 5!) ---I also took the time to analyse the modulations and think I nailed them all (except one where M. shifts into a lydian mode for a moment - - - so I am not sure if he was just being "modern" for a flash, or perhaps touching on PENCGAH MAKAM?)...

I will post these modulations and perhaps Joe can confirm.

I was especially grateful to Joe for going into a LONG modulation to MAQAM SIKAH BALADI. This is a really OUTSIDE maqam, appearantly only used as a modulation, and not as a base maqam for composing. Many of the musicians I have met here (and almost all of the instructors at the OUDHOUSE had not even heard of this maqam). ...also http://www.maqamworld.com does not give a full description of this maqam - it seems that the scale is pretty stable except the FOURTH DEGREE is nuts. It seems that when you are in the LOWER TETRACHORD the fourth degree is played as a 'piano natural fourth' but about 2 komas flat! ...and when you are in the upper tetrachord the fourth is played as a 'piano SHARP four' but also about 2 komas flat.

The 2nd, 3rd, 6th, and 7th seem stable but in unusual positions - like and extremely small hijaz interval. . . only a whole-tone (9komas) difference btw 2 - 3 and 6 -7...

Anyway, I can hear and play this now, and Mohammed Antar has confirmed this.

I love sikah baladi, as a kind of modulation when you want to sound to suddenly go totally nuts and OUTSIDE... as Joe demonstrates.

Edward Powell - 1-26-2009 at 03:08 AM

PART TWO....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u9TV_3Z6-40

Amazing Joseph Tawadros and Mamdouh al Gibaley - The Art of Egyptian Oud

JamesOud - 1-26-2009 at 10:10 AM

This is amazing! This is oud playing!

Edward has luckily put these up on "My trip to Egypt" but I think it needs a thread of its own.

Its also great because it has JT playing the JT signature model made by Faruk Turunz and Mamdouh is playing a Maurice Shehata

Enjoy!

Part One:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KWn2ysvVUZU

Part Two:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u9TV_3Z6-40

Excited James! :D

fadel - 1-26-2009 at 10:55 AM

hi

10000000 thank

MatthewW - 1-26-2009 at 11:28 AM

Hi James! I share your excitement, this is without a doubt some great oud jamming at its best.
:airguitar: For me however it's not a question of which oud sounds the best or which of these two top-notch players is the better- both ouds sound great to me (it's probably down to personal taste which sound anyone prefers... like apples and oranges), and perhaps if they traded ouds half way through the taqsim they might even sound a bit different due to individual playing techniques.
I think we'll get a lot of mileage out of these two excellent youtube clips. regards MW

Luttgutt - 1-26-2009 at 01:48 PM

Totally agree with MatthewW!
I have to say that to MY ears, the Shehata Oud is by far better sounding than Turunz. Personnaly, I don't like the buzzing sound of it. And to be honest, I am not so keen on Tawadros impros: he is almost always out of time in the quick parts, limbs and strives at the finishings (with all respect. And this is MY opinion). There is room for honesty in here, right? :-)

Edward Powell - 1-26-2009 at 01:49 PM

Sami
there was no crowd... just the three of us. Most of the moaning was JT himself...

Hey Matt...
please put the link to you clip back up - I was really enjoying that!

SamirCanada - 1-26-2009 at 02:27 PM

thanks for the clarifications.
I was moaning too when I heard it and I wasnt even there!

Thank you so much for sharing this.
I am not going to hide it my friend, I envy you for being there but I know you will cherish this moment for the rest of your life.

Edward Powell - 1-26-2009 at 02:41 PM

Yes... it's great!

Been checking out more of Mamdoh's clips... he really has great feeling in his playing. Although he doesn't speak much English, I could feel he has a kind and warm heart.

He gave us each 2 of his CDs... WONDERFUL stuff!

jass - 1-26-2009 at 02:49 PM

Hello Guys,

This is Awesome!

But Luttgutt I cant agree with you there. I think Tawadros has incredible time and the quick finishes are actually adventureous but spot on exciting phrases. Anyone agree or disagree?
His rhythmic ideas are quite complex, but uses a beautiful traditional platform. Also, Tawadros' tone is very strong and present and the Turunz oud really compliments his playing. But I agree this will come down to personal taste and they are both outstanding instrumentalists. Apples and oranges. Edward said these are two of five, so looking forward to the others...
Great discussion!

:bounce:Jas.

Melbourne - 1-26-2009 at 04:01 PM

Somthing like these jamming sessions would make a phenomenal album, even with all the emms and aahs, they're definitely the icing on the cake, and a big part of tarab tradition - that's my only comment. I'm sure many would agree!

regards;
Melbourne

Melbourne - 1-26-2009 at 04:11 PM

Hey Edward

maybe you want to put these clips in a fresh post - otherwise everyone else will get the credits as they hunt the clips down on youtube :D

Really great stuff -

Thank You

Ararat66 - 1-26-2009 at 04:45 PM

Hi James

I know what you say as a competition is slightly tongue in cheek;) but for me I don't even make ths comparison, what is going on here transcends trivial things like is this better than that, even apples and oranges:D.

These two have real chemistry and artistry together and it is a joy to here this.

Leon:xtreme:

Ararat66 - 1-27-2009 at 12:57 AM

I've always been a great admirer of Joe's playing since I started oud and I have great faith in his playing, its great to see him here and it has introduced me, and no doubt others on this forum, to Mamdoh - wow what a passionate player, just beautiful ... hey you two(three??;)* are a perfect match:xtreme:

Leon

Edward Powell - 1-27-2009 at 05:20 AM

hmmm...

I am not totally sure if the artists involved here would appreciate this discussion which (all due respect) sounds a bit like a sports commentation:)) (sorry)

to be honest, I would like to see comments relating to my thread kept on my thread... and also I would like to be given the authority to delete certain comments that I see as in appropriate (I get this authority on my own threads on other forums I am a member of)

not quite sure now how I feel about uploading the other clips, and even keeping the existing ones on line - if the public is not able to resist it's tempation to Judge and Compare. . . . . come on people, this is ART, not a MEAT MARKET:)

abusin - 1-27-2009 at 05:44 AM

Hi Edward and James,

Even though I still havent had the previlge to see this great videos as I'm at work and no access to youtube here:(

I totally agree with yo Edward, we shoudn't be judging these great artists or this graet instruments, I think the vedios are here for us to see and share;)

So my first request would be for the admin to remove the title and some of the negative comments..

Thanks to you Edward for the trouble in making this materials available to us, with my best regards to JT & Mamdouh al Gibaley and the great oud masters Mr. Turunz and Mr. Shehata

Regards to all

Greg - 1-27-2009 at 06:28 AM

Edward,

I share your concern in regard to this thread asking for comparisons of the artists and the instruments, but I feel that it would be heavy-handed of the moderators to be censoring this type of thread.

I would hope that the original poster would edit his own post and the title of this thread to remove the unpleasant connotations.

Regards,

Greg

Edward Powell - 1-27-2009 at 06:57 AM

...ok Greg I hear ya...
If you want to run it this way, that's fine.

So in this case, I will take these clips off public access, and people can contact me privately if they want to see them.

Joe himself has the full footage so he can post them if he wants.

JT - 1-27-2009 at 06:59 AM

Hey Guys,

Ive never been compared to apples and oranges, a watermelon maybe :D

Mamdouh and I are friends and I dont mind 'constructive' criticism, but I feel this thread may pin us up against each other and I dont think that its fair to compare.
We both have our own style of taqasim and we have a great chemistry together. Nice to come up in a thread but when I read the title, I instantly saw dangerous potential...its music, something very dear to us and I hope it can be appreciated as such and not as a competition that is sometimes and unfortunately done.
And as for the makers Oustaz Turunz and Oustaz Shehata, their work speaks for themselves.

Thanks for the enthusisam...All the best and happy ouding!

JT

Luttgutt - 1-27-2009 at 07:12 AM

Hi all!
I was only giving my personal opinion. I am sorry if it created any problems. And I know that I should have kept my opinien to myself. But the reason why I did not, is that people here have a tendansy to tolk about JT og Turunz as if they are "Gods", and that TOO is not nice to other oud players and oud makers that are as good (appel/orange).
With all my respect to all.

JamesOud - 1-27-2009 at 07:29 AM

Hello Guys,

I apologise if the thread was abit 'dangerous'. I have changed the title. I hope we can all enjoy now but still leave constructive comments.

Luttgutt, I think your drive to leave that comment wasnt to be constructive but because you feel a jealousy for people talking about or appreciating JT and Turunz, this is not called tenasity, but appreciation.
I will admit Im probably the biggest JT fan and hope I didnt upset him with this thread. Talking about JT, doesnt mean its not nice to other oud players, plenty of other oud players are talked about and can be talked about freely...anyone agree with me?

Alot of people forget JT is only 25 years old (I think, or 24) and he has done so much for oud playing bringing new and exciting projects for the oud and inspiring young players like me. So to leave a bad comment because hes getting attention is jealousy which is not nice...I also take responsibility for I also brought it on myself...sorry again, and sorry JT.

Thanks to all the posts guys, Im sorry again and Edward I look forward to more clips please!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Apologetic James :)

Ararat66 - 1-27-2009 at 09:15 AM

Its true, Joe is amazingly young for the maturit of his music, I remember meeting him as a rookie oud player but 40 years of age with two children and feeling old and young at the same time.

Good health to ya Joe:xtreme:

Edward Powell - 1-27-2009 at 09:19 AM

Hi James

I greatly admire and appreciate your enthusiasm - especially for "oud - God" JT (not the ONLY "oud - God", but certainly one of them!)

Lots of opinions being expressed, so here is mine - - - I don't see the need for a separate thread to discuss these clips - at least not at this point in time. I KNOW you didn't mean it this way, but to be honest it feels a bit like having my CAIRO thread 'high-jacked'.

My feeling is that the discussion ought to be kept focused over there, at least for the next 7 weeks or so while I am still here. After that it any part of my CAIRO thread can be dissected and discussed on individual threads as far as I am concerned.

my 2 cents...

but this footage is not my property, and I am not the only person who has copies...

JT - 1-27-2009 at 09:42 AM

Gentlemen,

Im cool with it dudes...Mr JamesOud, Im not upset, your cool to post whatever you like and youve been a great support in the past, so thanks, but try and assess the thread before posting:)
Luttgutt has his opinion and I respect that, he's free (and I give him permission) to criticise my playing as long as Im not compared to my dear friends. Im sure theres others that may not like what I do, and to think otherwise would be really naive of me.

My only concern is when I maybe pinned up against my friends Mamdouh, Faruk or Maurice. The world is big enough for us to all co-exist and share each others music, except in planet of the apes (cant trust those monkeys I tell ya! :) :D :mad: :mad:

As for my age, I am 25, but look like Im 40...I guess the receding hairline and the hamburgers have taken a toll over the years:)

Happy ouding and keep smiling...lets not get caught up in to many arguments now...:applause:

JT

Ararat66 - 1-27-2009 at 10:35 AM

Hehe nice one Joe - I am vegetarian but do you think eating hamburgers will improve my oud playing?

Leon

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